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No. The BOV that you have connects to the 3000 pipe and the original vacuum line. If you wanted to fix the rich on shifts problem, it would need to connect to the accordion hose ALSO - at the big connection that I assume is currently plugged with duct tape. The small line off the bottom of...

You DID need it. Now it's too damn late! ;)

That's the only Mustang I ever really liked. Drive one owned by a buddy, 3 speed manual tranny, the thing really WENT. I hit 150 mph on the freeway before I realized the speedo was built before anyone used km/hr!

No, that's not the problem. The stock bypass valve vents air from the 3000 pipe into the accordion pipe. The setup you have vents from the 3000 pipe to open atmosphere. To fix it, you would need to re-route the waste air from your BOV back into that hole in the accordion pipe.

Hey, nice to see you back in action. :) You going to go to the Centralia meet?

This will probably work, but it's less than ideal. Unless you also have a different air measuring device than the stock AFM, this will vent measured air during shifts, causing you to run extremely rich momentarily.

Ratcheting, swiveling, 14mm gear wrench makes this SO much faster.

Careful... some of those people are still driving it, AND are members here.

I've run scientific tests that prove that human beings do NOT drive better when under the influence. If you happen to be the exception, well, you'll be the first statistical anomaly I've seen. That said, the cop didn't pull you over for running a red light. That's just what he gave you a...

And the rule of thumb for used bits is 50% of MSRP on average, more if it's in nice condition (which it appears to be) and less if it's in worse than average condition.

In theory, you don't need to re-torque on a set of bolts that's been heat cycled... however, what it really boils down to is, it won't hurt. And it might help. I've never had one loosen off on bolts / studs that have already been heat cycled... but I keep checking! Do them one at a time...

Drop the tank, pull the sensors / fuel pump, blast out all the gunk, get it powder coated, reinstall. :)

You know, we could reverse all that lag inducing work on your car pretty easy... To the OP, nicely done. Have fun with it! :)

The Doc's are *nice*. I ran one for years. They are a straight through system instead of the ugly T setup that most people build, they have a locking ring to prevent losing your boost settings, and they are entirely shiny brass.

I don't think the OP was considering replacing his timing belt, just the accessory belts. You *can* get all the accessory belts off without taking off the fan clutch and fan, but it's a pain to do. Mind you, taking off the fan shroud, fan, and e-fans is likewise a pain, pretty sure this is...

The specs are different, but not by much. The difference is the location of the wastegate signal line, you can see it is in 2 different spots in my picture.

Lots of things. FIRST fix that check engine light. It's used for the very first step in just about anything engine related on this car - checking for codes.

What temperature is it outside when you say 'cold'? Do you mean the engine is completely cooled to ambient temperature?

FYI, that's an 89 on the left, (the original turbo off my car, as a matter of fact) and something else on the right.

Looks stock to me, but you should still go order a new one.