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You really should give it a shot. IMO, it's the best part of the state.

Buddy of mine picked one up, and has this idea that he can make it fast.

Valves are cheap. Heads are not. I'd be inspecting that head very carefully.

It's probably plugged with gunk. Try blowing into the line at the BOV end. If you can't, you need to pull the lines off, soak them in paint thinner (or something similar) and blow them out with compressed air.

I hate children. Even mine. Unless I need their skinny little slave arms to reach a bolt that I dropped, working on the Supra. Then I lure them out with candy... until they get me my bolt, then I hate them again. And I eat their candy.

Have you been living under a rock all this time? This is the old one - I still have some of these. There's a new one that matches the logo on the SM Red theme, too.

I'll differ here, though. Low end torque is useless unless you can get your vehicle to hook, which seems to be a problem on every big V8 I've driven that doesn't come with traction control. So let me get this straight... Domestic manufacturers are building something that has SO much torque...

Those look really nice. However, the guy is smack talking vinyl, which leads me to believe that he is either running some marketing spin, or has NFI what he is talking about. I swear I'm going to get some modern vinyl samples and bring them to every car show / meet I attend. The stuff is...

Well, it's RATED for the stock boost - max of about 7psi. I've only ever seen one that was still in working condition. I wouldn't use one for anything over 10psi on a stock turbo, and I wouldn't use one at all on any kind of turbo upgrade.

So, all three pieces? ;) Just pressure test your IC pipe where the BOV is mounted. Seal off both ends, put a tire valve in one of the caps, and use a bicycle pump to add pressure. Listen at the BOV for a leak.

Yes. If I recall correctly, only one of those wires goes to the ECU.

That's what he needs. The question is, does he have an internal to the ECU HAC, or an external one? 89+ has all been internal so far. 88- is MUCH easier to wire up.

That looks more like impact damage than corrosion to me. It definitely doesn't look like the piston *I* burned. That was a smooth radius with a rough texture on the edge of the piston and valve cutout. And dude, put on shoes. Steel toes in the garage will make you a MUCH happier guy in your...

Ya, mine was out too. Pretty sure the ZT units are set to use a 0-5v scale, and my TPS only goes to about 3.5v max. It shouldn't affect your maps, though, because the ZT unit just reports AFR, no RPM / EGT / TPS readings to whatever you are using to control actual fuel delivery, in my case, a...

AND this is extremely unlikely. When these die, they always tend to die fully open. More likely that you're pushing too much flow, and the stock unit simply isn't capable of bleeding off enough air.

Helps if you don't run any catalytic converters, too.

X-men logo?

Three kids, huh? How old? The small ones can get their hands in places we can't... and it's not child slavery if they are your own offspring! ;)

Yup, I pass mine through a MAFT Pro.