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No. The flywheels are different. The only things that are the same between them are the pilot bearings and the clutch disc itself. The throwout bearings, hubs, forks, pressureplates and flywheels are all different.

Black box is the same, so if you put that on your existong AFM, then it'll work exactly like stock, and you'll have the Lexus AFM body for when you get the larger injectors.

You need a W58 clutch setup if you're using the W58 transmission.

E2 to IDL. E2 should be a ground point, and it can be any non-infinite amount of resistance (IE, the inside of your TPS gets wet for whatever reason and there's a high-resistance contact between E2 and IDL, you'll still have no revving, which is what happened to me.)

Question 1: The ECU switches it, from what I've seen, it's based on an RPM/Load table. You can see that point on people's dyno graphs, where air/fuel is mapped on the graph. Doesn't seem to have so much to do with power, that's just your engine hitting its torque curve. Question 2: IDL at the...

Looks like a nice upgrade, and I'll keep it in mind for when my front brakes get upgraded, but I wouldn't be upgrading the rears without first upgrading the fronts, myself, even if I do have ABS.

Considering that I had to buy new A70 upper arms because of worn bushings... Yeah. Plus the fact that although Toyota doesn't sell the bushings, Energy Suspension does. (Those kits became available less than a year after I bought new upper control arms.)

You mean the 'oil filter bracket'? http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=LU&P=17 36 ft-lbs (500kg-cm)

Or, since there's no argument about which is the "front" or "rear" of the car, then there shouldn't be any about which is the "left" and "right" sides. After all, a person's "front" aren't in question, and neither is "left" and "right" In the engine bay, I'll use left and right, or...

Speed sensor should be with the ABS, so from the tail of the transmission to the left side of the block, under the intake manifold, where it then joins the ECU harness and goes to the ECT controller and ABS controller.

Is that a GE block? There are 3 knock sensor bosses on the 7M block. The front and rear ones are used by the GTE, and the middle one for the GE. In the event that you have a GE, the front and rear bosses are not machined and threaded. In a GTE block the center one is not machined and threaded.

That'd be perfect. And what it does when you open the throttle.

It's a coaxial wire, 2 conductor.

It's in here somewhere, that there are 2 pins that need to be swapped at the place where the chassis harness plugs into the ECU. I didn't know that at the time, and I cut the wire at the headlight relay and at the #1 integration relay, and ran a piece of 20 gauge wire between them, haven't had...

Check AFM wiring first, and I'd still like to know what the manifold vacuum is.

I believe that the sensors are the same, I know that people have wired the GE knock sensor to the GTE ECU.

Those fans don't seem to like running full time (Mine didn't :( ) but other than that, it's just fine. I wired mine directly off of a relay though, and set it to come on with the A/C.

The round 3 pin one looks like the ABS speed sensor, not sure with the 6 pin rectangular one. Possibly EGR? There's a few things under the intake manifold.

Well, driver's and passenger's side can mean different things, depending on if it's a LHD or RHD car. To me (And common convention) left and right are if you are standing behind the car, facing the same direction as the car is. (Note we say "left hand drive" for North American market cars...

Check codes. Really. Re-reading through to see where things are at. 1. If you have a downpipe, the NA catback exhaust works, by the way. I ran the same exhaust from my NA for a while before my 3" came in. At least this will make the car something that the neighbors won't mind you starting now...