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No problem. The fuseable link looks like a regular chunk of wire with (IIRC) ring terminals at either end. As to which side of the fuse, if the fuse isn't blown, either end should be the same. ;) If you've removed the fuse then check both sides. Only one side should read +12V. If neither does...

Yep, check for codes. I've been running my 7M-GTE with Lexus AFM and 550cc injectors for a couple of years now on the NA stock fuel pump, don't seem to have issues with that. I have a Walbro which I plan to install, I just haven't actually done it yet.

Take the IC out, cap the intake and outlet. Pop a fitting in one cap (Like from an old rim or something) and see if it takes pressure. 5-6 PSI should be all you need to test to. Or, quick and dirty, pour about a quarter cup of gas in the IC and turn it around to see if any leaks from any of the...

Back in 1996, I had my '89NA out and let it wind out as long as it'd go. I got it to 6400 RPM in 5th gear... Eventually. that comes to about 140mph (Speedo said 154 or something stupid like that.)

I remember doing this... My speedometer is more accurate than my odometer now. ;)

Hacked wire harness = bad. Can't help much there. When you hit FCO does the car seem to lose all power? If so, then it's definitely an intake leak. Did you check your intercooler for damage/leaks? The one that was with my donor car was horrible, and leaked very badly. (Actually, it's probably...

There's also a fuseable link. I could only find the one reference to it in the TSRM, (http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=ST&P=2) where it describes the fuseable link being blown and tells you to replace it. Basically test for continuity at various locations...

If the motor mounts are different then that's an early '89. Makes zero electrical difference (I'm told by someone who should know) it just means that you'll have to swap over your motor mounts, unless you want to swap the crossmember, too. The later crossmember makes a JZ swap easier. (More work...

As we've been saying... Warmer temperature raises the boost level of FCO, as well as higher altitude (Though Costa Mesa is pretty much at sea level) as well as individual differences in 20+ year old engines.

Large intercooler = denser air charge = FCO at lower manifold pressure. Sea level... 'nuff said. 10 PSI FCO is to be expected.

I did that to my sawblades several years ago. You probably don't want to see what they look like now... You've really got to keep on top of polishing them, or else they look hideous. A clearcoat is probably a really good idea. Oh, and also, once they start looking rough, you can't even polish...

You shouldn't need to make a jumper. The headlight up pin is different, but doesn't need a jumper, it just needs to be moved one over. For the ABS, I made a jumper harness for mine, but that's because i had the chassis side ECU on the '87 donor car, and it was going to the wrecker. I cut the...

Check the main fuseable link. That's the wire connection at the battery to the main fuse box. Use a multimeter to test for battery voltage, and you'll see where it's blown. Don't replace the fuseable link with a piece of regular wire, get a proper replacement.

Vancouver, BC, Canada. Sea level. Air pressure (ambient 20 deg C) 14.7PSI. Calgary, AB, Canada, 3442 ft above sea level. Air pressure (Ambient 20 deg C) 12.7PSI In other words, you have to be running 2 lbs of boost in Calgary to get the same performance as at zero pressure in Vancouver. FCO...

http://www.andysautosport.com/toyota/1986_1992_supra/exterior/trunks/carbon_creations/ Andy's Auto Sport also has one from VIS but it's more expensive, and doesn't seem to have any real advantages. True the weight is in the rear, but it's also HIGH. Make it up with a battery relocation or...

If you just bypass the VSV altogether this also works, but the valve will shut off under boost. I replaced mine years ago with the Mercedes Benz part, works great.

Did some experimentation, and I've determined that I now have an exhaust leak. :( This is not the source of the problem, but it's made spooling somewhat slower than the last time I had the car out, so it's harder to test stuff. Pretty sure the exhaust leak came from one of the fine roads around...

This. The stock manifold isn't a the problem. If you want to change to a different turbo, then choose the turbo first, then choose the manifold to suit. Don't rule out "bolt-on" turbos just because they use the stock manifold though, it's really not a problem.

That's exactly the sort of thing that happens with a BOV blowing metered air to atmosphere. It could also be symptomatic of a boost leak.

Lol. R154. Fingers got one off.