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My compressor is in bad shape, too. In my case, the expansion valve failed, and someone decided that what it needed was more refrigerant... FAIL. Haven't bought parts, since it's the expansion valve that isn't going to be any fun at all to get to... Compressor, receiver/dryer and seals is a...

'nother note, there's no point in checking at idle, since idle is always open loop mode. Similarly there's no point at WOT, since that's also open loop mode. I made a bunch of Vf meters based on Jeff M's design from way back in the day. I think that I still have a couple left. They could use a...

I bought a recirc fitting for my HKS SSQV. Bonus (to me) it gets rid of the whistle. Some cars won't stall, but they'll probably give a black puff for running super rich. A MAP translator (MAF-T Pro, VPC) will allow venting to atmosphere with no ill effects, since the air isn't really metered...

Connectors under the hood are the easiest place to look, at the FP relay, igniter, and a few other places. You can be absolutely sure if you pull the glove box and look where the ECU connects to the chassis harness.

Keep in mind too that PSI doesn't necessarily equate to mass of air, or actual power. In Calgary, Alberta, you're at 3500ft elevation above sea level. Go to Vancouver, and you're at sea level. This means that compared to Calgary, an NA engine is running almost 2PSI of boost just by driving to...

This. Toyota DID put it in there for a reason. It might be less important if we didn't have batch-fire injectors, but we do. I imagine that it also takes some of the hit at the 9-12V switch in FP voltage, so MAYBE it's less important if you have a full-time 12V mod and aftermarket fuel pump...

Tried grease. Didn't work. Tried wet paper towel. Didn't work either, and managed to pack it in to about the consistency of MDF. Went and got a better bearing puller, which worked with something jammed in between the jaws of the puller tight enough that it could not come loose. The back side of...

My car was originally an NA. I left the voltmeter in, and used the pillar pod for boost and an aftermarket coolant temp. If I had a wideband, I'd use that instead of the coolant temp.

See if you can get a recirc fitting for the BOV. I have an HK$ SSQV and bought the recirc fitting for it. Well worthwhile, IMO, as it prevents stalling and those annoying puffs of black smoke. It also stops the high pitched whistle when the BOV lets go (Though for me, I find this a good thing...

If you can see the clutch fork moving, then you can most likely rule out the hydraulics. Master/slave cylinder and line are probably fine. I had a problem come bite me after installing the engine/transmission. Forgot to torque down the flywheel bolts quite enough.When I hit the clutch pedal...

Well, since the parts car was an '87, the yellow plug harness was what I had. With that one modification to the headlight relay and the ABS adapter, it worked perfectly. Would the grey plug harness have the pigtail for the HAC sensor? (Later ECUs had the HAC sensor inside the unit itself...

Yeah, it'll probably be wet paper towel. Not looking forward to cleaning that out, but so long as it does the trick.

My point being, however that it's a lot easier to get to the transmission (bellhousing) side of that combination than it is to get to the starter side. As such, it's not to the bellhousing that I'd want to JB weld the nut, it's the starter side.

Well, I'd rather put the nut on the starter side, and have the bolt come from the back (where I can get to it.) If the nut is on the transmission side, then I still need to get a socket or a wrench to the starter side, and that was the whole problem. I'm going to look at that. Maybe weld the nut...

I've done this in my car. My car is an early '89, so it has the same motor mounts as the '86.5-'88. The donor car was an '87. No problems with compatability there. The chassis/GE harness was a grey plug. The engine/GTE harness was yellow plug. The plug for the instrument cluster worked...

I picked up a used flywheel, had it resurfaced, and it's bolted in, using the ARP flywheel bolts I bought at the same time as the clutch kit. didn't add much expense to the project. Bought a pilot bearing puller... Which completely failed to remove the pilot bearing. It seems that it was...

Well the flywheel has cracks in it, so it looks like I need a 7M-GTE/R154 flywheel in useable condition.

It was dark when I finally got the transmission off, so I didn't get a really good look at the flywheel, but it looks to be fine, just lots of clutch dust on it. The surface feels good. I will consider resurfacing anyway, of course, and I do know of a couple of places that can do it at a...

I think that auto or manual is mostly a matter of personal preference, and some of what you want to do with it. I believe that autos (Provided that the transmission can handle it) will be faster on the quarter mile, particularly with turbocharged engines if for no other reason than the fact...

How tall is that core? If the inlet/outlet on that thing is 2" then a good hunk of that core would be covered by the A70's bumper reinforcement, meaning that it wouldn't get any airflow. That'd be the same as a reduced core size. Also, the IC piping would be a pain to route around from the other...