Search results

You don't NEED the R154, but it's a good idea if you're going to go for upgrades. You will need to do something about the tach. You can get the box from a turbo car, or something like a MSD tach adapter. There's a list of resistors you can swap if you're handy with a soldering iron as well. Of...

A 60-1 wheel in a stock CT26 housing, yes. I have a 60-1 turbonetics which is bolt-on, and there are the BOSS turbos which are also bolt-on, and I believe can be as large as you might want.

O2 sensor code means that it isn't crossing stoich signal voltage when it's expected to be warm. The car only takes feedback from the O2 sensor when it's in closed loop. Open loop is idle and WOT, when it expects to be running rich.

Only thing that sounds familiar is that if the IDL is not working on the TPS, it won't cut fuel when the throttle returns to idle, so the RPM doesn't drop as fast to the fuel return point. Doesn't explain the high idle though, since that shoud be controlled by the ISC. (That might be sticky though.)

Looking for suggestions here. I've got one of the older Turbonetics bolt-ons with a 60-1 compressor on the front of it. Unsure what the A/R is on the hot-side turbine, but I think that it's 0.50. It's got an internal wastegate, connected to a BOSS turbo elbow, and RT downpipe. Good exhaust...

Drain port can be drilled. It's more trouble than it's generally worth, but it can be. If it's not there, it's definitely a GE block. GTE uses 2 knock sensors, front and rear. The GE has one knock sensor in the middle. Even if someone went to the trouble to tap out the other 2 bosses, the...

Probably the fuel sender unit. I've repaired a couple of these, it's not difficult at all, it's just a wiper on a wound resistor core. They lose contact sometimes. Open it up, bend the wiper, and it's good for another 20 years...

I've got an '87 yellow plug harness in my '89 grey plug car. The one harness that wont' plug together is the ABS. Colour match the wires and connect them, and the ABS works fine. I made an adapter harness by taking the chassis side plug from the '87 to plug into the ECU harness and the ECU side...

You say you checked all the fuses, but there are some of those buggers that are harder to find. They're not all in that nice little kickpanel box, some are forward of that, including one little circuit breaker which was causing me all kinds of grief a few years back. Water temp and fuel gauge...

The 2 wire connector is for the reverse lights, the connector there is at the top of the transmission. The speed sensor should be on the vehicle's left, near the driveshaft output. It's the 3 wire connector in your second photo. The connector should be somewhere close to your starter.

FWIW, though the paint will add a slight insulative layer, it makes up for it by the fact that black actually radiates heat better. If you could anodize it, that would be just plain better, but a reasonable coat of black paint won't hurt anything.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=CL&P=11 I think that picture is a lot more clear as to what order things go in. I just did the clutch in my car, and used the TSRM for what order to assemble things in. Put the thrust cone and plate washer on the hub, then the...

My car was an early 1989 NA. Grey plug harness, but square motor mounts. The current engine is a 1987 turbo, yellow plug. Started first time, with minor issues. Had to re-wire the head light relay line, and replace the black box for the tach. (Still have some tach issues, but they're not...

Do you know what your local altitude above sea level is? The lower you are, the lower manifold pressure represents the mass of air required to hit FCO. Some differences for injectors and the like as well, but certainly check for boost leaks.

I'd bet that the issue is where the wire connects to the sending unit. It's a relatively easy fix, disconnect the wire, pry the contact up with a small screwdriver, clean, and re-connect. I get nervous when my oil pressure gauge reads zero. (After installing my motor, I was very concerned, since...

On mine, the fans hardly ever came on, even when everything was bone stock (And the system still had R12 in it.) It was still a rare thing for the fans to come on after the R134 retrofit, the only time that I knew the fans to come on was in 40 deg C heat, stop and go traffic. (I pulled over to...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AC&P=23 Doesn't make it seem too complicated. I haven't actually pulled mine yet, but I don't think that it would be that big a deal.

Yep. It means that something is igniting after the manifold. Whether you get flames out the tail depends on the amount ignited, where int he exhaust it happened and if you have a catalytic converter. I don't have a catalytic converter, I suspect that these are happening in the resonator...

There will always be individual differences between motors, even if the electronics are the same, particularly if neither one is exactly new. Some people's cars stall when they vent to atmosphere, some don't. Some just get black puffs from the super rich moment, others might get afterfires...

Remember also that it's absolute pressure, so a 1 bar sensor won't read boost at all. A 2 bar sensor will read up to 1 bar boost, so a 3 bar sensor is good for about 28 lbs boost.