Search results

I have one of those adapters as well, but haven't been able to get the filter to attach to it.

I did that for the ABS connector when I put the '87 GTE into my '89. The ABS plug didn't fit, so I spliced in the ECU side harness from my '89 and the chassis side one from the '87 to make an adapter harness. ABS works fine with it that way. The wires were similar, but not exactly the same...

HAC sensor is behind the glovebox for pre-'89 models, it's integrated into the ECU for '89+ models.

Makes sense, that looks like an auto ECU as well. The body harness connector should work though, since I was able to fit an '87 ECU into my '89. (89 grey plug to '87 yellow plug)

Grey plug harness is '89+, yellow plug is '88- If you use a yellow plug engine harness with the grey plug chassis harness (Like your '89 has) then you will have an issue with the headlights wanting to be on all the time, and the ABS connectors don't work together, but everything else is fine...

FP sounds good (That's where mine is set, too) so a vacuum leak then? I'd guess between the AFM and the ISC valve, since it seems to only affect idle AFR and not idle RPM.

The starter is pretty much independant of the rest of the system, but if the engine is still in the car, is the transmission connected? If so, any decent clutch should be able to hold enough torque applied at the crank bolt. (I suppose this is moot if your car is an auto). If the transmission...

I have a 1989, but since my car was NA, it didn't have the 3pc spoiler, so mine would be the same as yours. When my power antenna died, I went to Canadian Tire and bought a $60 generic power antenna. I used the pieces from the stock unit on either side of the metal, since the aftermarket...

Sounds like your base fuel pressure is low, what does the gauge for your FPR read at idle with vacuum disconnected? Cruising throttle, the ECU will compensate via the O2 sensor to get you close to the 14.7 mark, and WOT is pretty much always going to be richer than that. The other possibility...

A cap is still a valid component, and does solve a problem, just not the one that most people THINK that it solves. I'm all for good, clean sound. That's the way that I build stuff for me to listen to. I have a cap in my car because it PROPERLY addressed a problem which I was having. I could...

I have the hyper medallion as well. It's really quiet when you're just cruising around. It does get loud at WOT, but not nearly as loud as others. At a recent cruise, I could hear other people's exhausts over mine (And they were behind me, so it's not just direction). Definitely louder than...

@Greek: that's because the #1 integration relay (Where the marker and dash lights draw their power from) is electrically close to where the stereo constant power comes from, so they suffer from the voltage drop caused by the aftermarket deck's high demand. You can run a better constant power...

2 Farads of capacitance will supply a modest amplifier with voltage for a few miliseconds, but that's not what they're for. They are there to counteract the parasitic losses on a long wire. Since the amplifier's current draw is not uniform, there is a slight delay between the amplifier drawing...

It does depend on what you're using the cap for. It's a bandaid (And a poor one) for an electrical system that can't deliver, but it DOES help with certain issues with the actual sound, ie a slight voltage drop at the amplifier at the start of a big load draw, and a slight spike at the end of...

I know of a couple of people using NOS to spool some big turbos, but they turn it off once they hit full boost.

If it's a spherical bearing, then it's not a weak link. I have a complete poly bushing set that I need to install... Good to know which one I should not replace.

Hey, if I knew, then I wouldn't ask. I'm not intending to argue with anyone, just looking for info. For the electrochemical corrosion in the radiator, as I said, it just seemed that it wouldn't matter because the coolant will already ground it, but if that is an issue, well, there's one...

There is no reason that I'm aware of that the stock bypass valve can't deal with 9-10 PSI boost.

Hard to say for sure, but he was probably talking about the wastegate. The easiest and cheapest way to get to 9 or 10 PSI (About as much as I'd run on the stock fuel system myself anyway) is to shim the wastegate. Basically unbolt it from the front of the turbo, and put it back on with a couple...

Well, given that coolant DOES conduct, it's not particularly well isolated, not to mention the contact possibilities of having a lot of otherwise bare aluminum exposed. Perhaps if you'd care to share what the reason for isolating the radiator is, and why it would be a bad idea to ground it? I'd...