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For the 7M, you can put the GTE manifold and turbo directly onto the GE head (Exact same casting.) In terms of that, it's a breeze to get things connected. The cheapest way to get forced aspiration onto a 7M-GE is to put the manifold and turbo onto the engine. Add in an intercooler and some...

Personally, I wouldn't do the FFIM. If you're going to do that, then you might as well start with a GTE, you've got enough work ahead of you, and a decent enough 7M-GTE can be found for the price of the manifold. The easiest way to drop the compression ratio is with the GTE pistons, or...

Nope. It wouldn't work that way. Instead, it would not applhy ANY throttle at all, until it got tot he point where it hit the controller threshhold, then it would pin it (Up to almost zero manifold pressure) until it got back up to speed. I know that the car will go into boost bone stock, but...

I have a 3E5 Supra, and am planning on painting it something else. I like the red, and when it's clean and in good condition, it looks very nice. There's a REASON that it's a popular colour. In my case though, I'd like a different colour. I KNOW that my car is never going to be a collector's...

Actually, you should be able to get exactly the same effect if you disconnect the vacuum pump from the CC actuator. (Just unplug the electrical, should do the trick, and if it doesn't work, you can just plug it back in.)

Well, then there are people like me. I have a lot of nice upgrades, which make it pretty easy for the engine to go into boost, however, since my car was NA from the factory, and I did not change out the cruise control, it is not possible for the engine to go into boost while on cruise. This is...

It's just an upgraded CT26. If I were going to go that way, I'd rather spend a bit more money at Driftmotion, and know exactly what I was going to get. $400 from the eBay vendor, and you get something that they say is upgraded, but you don't know with what parts. I'd rather pay the $650 and get...

With a turbocharged car, MOST upgrades should actually help fuel economy, provided that you don't walk on the pedal. Of course something that just increases boost (Like a boost controller) won't help fuel economy, since it can only really increase the amount of fuel you can burn, but intake and...

Possibly incomplete, but from memory, the USDM 7M-GTE, and JDM 7M-GTEU don't have a lot of differences. The JDM motor will be lacking EGR and related components. These often go bad anyway, so this may not be so bad, though I'd rather have a functional EGR myself. If you're using the USDM ECU...

The 0.1mm won't be that big a deal Given a stock compression ratio of 8.4:1 for a 7M-GTE, that means that for the 2954cc displacement, the combustion chambers must be 399.19cc Given an 86mm bore (and 6 cylinders) a reduction in HG thickness by 0.2mm (a 2.0mm gasket instead of a 2.2mm gasket)...

Re-read... If you've got no spark while the engine is cranking then it sounds like a current problem. While the starter is cranking, there's not enough juice to power up the ECU, ignition and/or injectors. Check ground to the igniter, ECU and your MAFT-Pro

Except that I thought it had been already addressed that the 10-12:1 AFRs at WOT are absolutely normal for a 7M-GTE with the stock TCCS, even if you aren't running a Lexus/550 setup, and therefore, it's also absolutely normal when you are. Personally, I'm hoping for 11-12:1 AFRs at WOT under...

For what it's worth... A relay or the like is the kind of thing that you can get at a wrecker dirt cheap. Even if you DON'T just throw it in your toolbox, they'll only charge you a buck or so for it. Failing that, a relay is a relay, and it's very likely that a $2.99 Autozone relay could do the...

Only possible reason that I can think that you might want to do this is if you've gone 2JZ, and are making some monster power, and want the Mk4 pumpkin, and even then, I think it'd be easier to just retrofit THAT into the existing suspension. The Mk4 pumpkin might also be necessary if you've...

Ziplock baggies and sharpies are your friends. For the gauges, the instrument cluster is also very easy to pull out, so I don't know if it NEEDS to be done at the same time. I'd probably leave that for another project, unless you already have everything. You have to disconnect the heater core...

Just a note here, but a leak that would cause lean at idle wouldn't need to be a boost leak, per se, since it would have nothing at all to do with the charge pipe from the turbo to the throttle body. A leak in the hose from the accordian hose, across the front of the 3000 pipe and to the ISC...

Don't worry about the blower, it's dirt simple to replace whenever. Squirrel cage mounted directly to the motor. I replaced mine in less than an hour. Yes, the heater core is a pain. Most of the nasty hoses are under the hood and pulling the dash off won't gain access to them. Be careful with...

To torque the bolt you MUST prevent the engine from spinning. For a manual transmission, this is pretty easy. Put it in gear (4th or 5th probably best) and set the e-brake. For an auto, you'll need something else. A pry bar in the starter hole, or rope in a combustion chamber. (remove spark...

The left hand side grommet is (IMO) best. It's on the same side as the battery, so the cable run is shorter under the hood, there's plenty of room in there, and it comes out somewhere kind of useful inside the car. You can add into it easily without compromising the integrity, and don't need to...

I'll third that. It would probably be worth having your battery load tested. Most places that sell batteries will do that for free, a battery with a dead cell will drop voltage like that under load sometimes, but a bad ground is far more likely, if you ask me. I'm running a stereo with a lot...