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yes it should. thats what i was trying to get at about the painting both sides. i had thought he wanted them to glow, which is why i suggested the painted top side and clear bottom. but if he wanted the needles to illuminate then ideally should keep to top clear and the bottom blue.

it was setup as a draw thru so if you put it in blow thru it will need to be tweaked.

what size injectors and what size maf is it set for? what are your corrections? normally 4-4.5k is where the stock ecu starts dumping in fuel altho you say its worse than it was before. when i had mine setup for 550cc injectors and 3.5" maf (as suggested despite running a 3") and it too...

i had asked some time ago on sf about radiator cap compatibility between the different radiators. i was told the greddy type N will fit as well as the power enterprise blue. i have not confirmed yet.

you painted both sides? id use some model paint thinner and take it off the back of the needle and perhaps thin down the top a little. that should help.

no, 3/8" not 3/4". what does 5 finger action mean?

i would be beside myself if the rev limiter could be raised! heck im excited already about the new sw!

haha. i got a pretty good deal since i set up multiple purchases. i think it was $2300 or so. was normally $3100. so far it has held up to everything that ive thrown at it. did 419rwtq at low boost and run some 9's w/ terrible traction. w/ the new setup i'm gonna really put it to the...

sure it was coolant? its possible you just overfilled the oil. or sometimes if the turbo seals are going bad it will start to smoke when at idle for a bit. if everything looks cool, i wouldnt worry about it too much.

cant tell you! actually, i cant. the shop that built it told me that. not sure what all was involved but when it shifts it means it.

go back to pg 65. there is some talk about it there. as far as wot a/f, i try to keep that 11.5 to 11.8 range. on the street tuning 12:1 is ok but dont like pushing it past that. run full time race gas and you could push that a little more.

ice works. only problem is you cant do that at the track. i spose you could do it during the cool down period but they now dont allow people even to use ice bags on the motors. people got too carried away and just layered their motor w/ bags and the leaking water onto the track didnt go over...

mine is similar to toyman as well. i have a 3400 stall and "super secret" valve body work.

i think the external is a lot better. first, there is less turbulence in the dp from the gate dumping into the stream. this is considering if you go open dump. if you do reroute the dump back into the exhaust, you can do it further down which would still help w/ the turbulence. second...

since he has the monitor mounted in the center, i would venture a guess he uses a rear facing camera.

lol great picture. red bull gives you wiiiiiings ;) but yep that gets the point across.

ah ok. i see now. makes more sense :)

looks really good! i like how you mounted the AN fittings in the t'stat housing. im a little confused on why you have an oil cooler attached off the housing tho. explain? also, what did you use for the red? a lot of the red i see has a brown tone to it.

circuit city sells what they call a smart harness. its a 2pc deal. first piece is the factory harness side and has a universal plug on the other end. then the second piece has the same universal plug on one end then the deck specific plug on the other. its super easy. took me all of 30...

best advice i would have is figure out what class you want to race. there are many rules depending on class and it would suck to modify something and it be deemed illegal for the class. also, chromoly is more expensive than mild steel, but weighs a lot less. if you could swing cm that would...