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yeah im hoping for high goals, or i would have never spent the extra cash if not high goals i definitly want reliable. i'll have more pics as time goes by and i take more specs down. i'll get those part numbers asap.

yeah that vaccume leak he speaks of is the vac line to the bov, i couldn't find the stock metal line that connects with 2 rubber hoses so i got creative, but im having a hard time hooking it up. it's a little hard to start because of the leak, but nothing like my supra, w/ a temp sensor...

well , i should have started this thread a few weeks ago, but that was all tear down!, not any of the fun stuff where going to want to see. now im rebuilding my own engine at my college shop, the reason for the rebuild was i was blowing compression into the coolant system , causing to run...

one three years ago! thats not bad.. ive done 3 this year! i replaced the one on the jdm i bought, blew it, then put on a mhg, fired it, and im now running another mhg, i fried it due to slightly warped block, and improperly prepping the block. and 15-17psi on an na-t your asking for...

rock on! another coverted to turbo! are you stayin na electronics or switchin to the gte? never mind, read into it better! any ways, keep the pics coming!

or red! they really dont look bad on the pearl white either!.. any ways, your car stock? i noticed every thing seems to be tucked up pretty good, so if it's not stock props.

now i haven't dragged my bro's 5speed set up yet, and im runnin an auto. but i have drivin many 5spd cars, and i usualy dont watch the tach, and wait for the power to start falling off. the thing is, you want to shift at a high enough point so your pulling harder in the next gear. and not...

oh there's a way to check if the light will work to begin with.. shrug.. i cant remember right no, but it has to do with groundin a wire in the diag box iirc.. .

the part i used was a jdm turbo, auto, throttle blade spinner thing.. it had came on my jdm turbo motor and i swaped it for an non turbo cam lober thing while tring to get the linkage to work. you will need, an non turbo throttle cable (maybe auto) because it's longer then the stock...

ditto on the plating, i know they look real clean when polished.. any ways, im sure a pair of plierd and a torche should make removal of the nipples fairly easie..

the bolt pattern needs to be 114.3/5 with like a 35mm+ backspacing if i remember correctly..

i guess the only way i would be satified , with purchasing this product would be if the company, pulled 4 motor's out of running cars, perfebly the same make and modle, doing this would give 4 identical oiling systems note millage, take two of the engines, and perform a rebuild...

is that a jz manifold? or a costum 22r style? only reason i thought 22r. is the use of an extension pipe, i couldn't see a good awnser for me.. thanks suze

good news Bad news.. well checked for codes, foun 51, looked it up, and found either tps or a switch, well i realized the ac was on fixed that, then rechecked and found 11, realized i didn't leave the fuse out lng enough.. 3rd time the charm! NO codes! so im happily working along...

i was thinking the same thing for destrokin... altho i have always just thought about etting a 5m block and swaping the 7m head onto it.

wow. hold on, lets fix a couple boo boo's.. i started it up, and she still has to many vac leaks to stay running. pcv aren't hooked to the vavle covers.. but we craqcked the throttle, and managed to get her to idle around 600-1200 rpm (throttle dependent) we dont have the linkage...

allready have a mhg? ive always wanted to do one of these swaps, i heard their a beast!

i found that with the mani on, if you remove the brake master from the booster you can get accesse to the top bolt, and should be able to get the bottom bolt from below..

yes it will not a big issue thouh, make sure you disconnect the positive side of the batterie before you do any work and i usualy drop the starter out from below cars.. but since your so far in this way, have at.

besides helping to get my brothers car preped for the road and out of the machine shop i have managed to rebulld 2 7m's one at a machin shop and one in my own hands. arp's rod's and mains, new toyota mains and rods bearing, & thurst< fpig for sealing up some of the gasket's and using it...