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I got an electronics cleaner specifically for MAFs/AFMs I just spray inside liberally and leave it standing to drain off while I changed my injectors. The member I bought it from told me the electronics are new and only had like 5 laps around a track and a few hundred miles or something like...

Tried to drive to home depot to get some supplies for work and she stumbled on firing up then was just cranking and didn't turn over. 24 and 34 error codes came up, AFM and turbo pressure. I do have a lexus AFM but it has new electronics and I cleaned it last week or so when I installed it but...

I want to give the rebuild kit a try but at the same time like I said I am not comfortable drilling into the CPS because it's so small and a pretty crucial piece. Fudge it I'll get a replacement and give them my core to save like $50 or so. Peace of mind is priceless.

I kind of rather have a new part instead of trying to keep my current one alive; then again, it's not really a new part but it's very clean.

Well I would do the rebuild kit but I am afraid of messing something up.

So I am debating on buying a new CPS and according to my research the one from autozone is an OEM replacement, this one...

I know after I used some compound and clay bar on my car it really brought out the pearl white paint.

What annoys me now is I replaced the trunk hatch stops and the weather stripping, squeaks went away for awhile but now it's back and it's a high pitched squeak like the hatch is barely moving and rubbing on metal.

Yea I have the lex/550 mod installed it runs pretty well. I am planning on getting an SAFC and innovate wideband to check and adjust my AFRs. My brother actually has an SAFC in his 2001 prelude and he doesn't use or want it anymore I might just use his and get the wideband.

I guess that's the shift point then

Does anyone's 7M seem to run out of steam after 4,500 rpm or is that normal?

Installing a downpipe is easy too right? ended up taking me like 4 hours to install lol.

Thanks buddy, runs great but I think my boost controller solenoid is broken.

Sorry I didn't get pictures of my setup last night I got home a little late and tired. I took pics this morning. This is where I mounted the solenoid, the OUT port is connected to the actuator and the IN port is connected to the turbo This is where I connected the controller to the boost...

yea that is why I am thinking my solenoid is dead.

Yea you connect the turbo pressure to the solenoid IN port then connect the wastegate to the solenoid OUT port it's just like the stock hose that goes from the turbo to the wastegate but you put the controller in between the two so it controls the pressure. Now I am thinking my solenoid is bad...

When I had a cheapo manual boost controller my boost actually increased and it was hooked up just like this one. I think the controller holds the pressure until it reaches the desired boost then it lets it go through the wastegate unless I am wrong about that.

No, the turbo is stock I did not modify it in any way. I didn't want to stretch the spring in the actuator also I want better control over the boost, which is why I got a controller.

I can take a pic tonight after work. It's running at stock boost 6-7psi but on my boost controller I have it set to 35%. It doesn't feel like it's being choked or anything it pulls great and hard and the response is very quick. I am thinking the solenoid is dead so it's just letting the turbo...

As instructed in the manual, the solenoid is hooked up to the turbo properly the in port is connected to the turbo and the out port is connected to the actuator, solenoid is ziptied to my charcoal canister and I Tee'd the boost source vac line by the cruise control and connected it to the...