are the gauges on the fpr? and are they liquid filled, if so there is a rubber grommet on it that needs to be removed to vent the gauge to get an accurate reading. make sure the opeing is facing up (obviously) so it doesnt leak all the oil out of the gauge!
start at the battery and alternator. pull your grounds (all of them) and clean the contact points to like new quality, it sounds like your elec. system is getting loaded to heavily with the lights on like the alt is worn.
edit 92nsx beat me to it :D
not a clue, haven had time to dyno between fixing all the seals on the front, work, school and the lake :D. might see what its got thursday. guys with a ported exhaust and safc have laid down 440 or so at 18-19psi, im at 14psi running rich as hell.
your going to have to raise fuel pressure accordingly if you run out of room with the safc, or if you start to run lean. there is not a one size fits all ( i assume you know this, just double checking) stock would be a good starting point, the high side of stock though to be safe. i think you...
my bad afm connector caused HORRIBLE bogging as well in the 2000-3000 range at part throttle. it would go then stop on its own. how ever i soon threw a code after it started doing that. any codes?
x= gallons of 93
y= gallons of e-85 (105, yes this is the high end estimate of what you might find)
(x * 93) + (y * 105) /(X+Y)= new octane rating
that math looks good, grim and early mornings = :sleep:
you set idle pressure for idle, ONLY. the fuel regulator should be a 1/1 meaning as vac decreases and boost increases, fuel pressure will rise. no adjustment needed other then tweaking your setup to adjust the fuel through out the entire rpm band,
120mph
i wasnt going to say anything to the above post but man thats just fucking dumb your lucky as hell some lady didnt pull out in front, or some animal run across the road or the list goes on.... even it was the dead of night, what road thats marked 35mph?! is going to not be dangerous at...
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