Search results

did you ever hear a bearing noise that went a way when the clutch was pushed in?

.018... no need to put a 0 in front of .18 as it changes the amount DRASTICALLY. Measure the valve cover to matting surface though and you should find the true measure of material removed. Those marks are from machining and clumsy install/dismantle. Is the head gasket a larger bore then stock?

how do you guys remove them? rip it out or drill it out?? thinking deformed head gasket... and for the block tester... autozone rents the tool you just have to buy the $7 dollar fluid. Thats about as cheap as it gets on a supra ;) If it didnt seal id look at flatness of the head and block...

Sounds like left overs then, pull the plug on the block and flush the snot out of it... Pull the water lines going to the heater core and flush it too. Then REMOVE the radiator and flush it totally as well. I would use dish soap until things come out clean. Break the whole system down, it...

might explain the design then, good info

a thin layer of gasket maker on the new gasket goes a long way with the dimpled pans...

piggy backs have cracked 500whp in capable hands. I would have gone standalone if it wasnt for the intial dyno time/tune needed to get things moving smoothly... Thats coming and honestly i would invest in that over a bigger turbo.

14 X 24 inches not sure on the thickness, 1" iirc. Just put mine back in or id take more pics... nothing special except the ports HAVE to face forward unless you do a right angle adapter on the ends (very tight fit if you do but a 22-23" width should provide the clearance)

^ any other info on the pressure issue they found? mine has been perfect for the last 6-8 months. Its always had way more fuel then it needed!

^ this is key. A complete flush along with removing EVRYTHING out of the car and putting new o-rings on. New dryer is needed if converting as well. Figgie is one of the few that i have seen report such good performance with r-134 on a stock system. JJ touched on it here: freeze 12 is...

why do you need a dyno again? You have to have something to tune with to start

speed density setup vs. stock afm = AFM cheaper. Hit up a junk yard and find a lexus ls 400. I picked up two for $50 a few months back

just that it kills turbos... :) I want some videos though if your going to thrash on it!!! Might as well have proof...

Edit: First post was brutally long! :) The AFM (read that again guys!! AFM!>!>) needs a cleaner that will not leave a residue. They are out there but i have yet to see one at the local auto stores (at least one that is designated for AFM cleaning). MAF cleaner will NOT work... ask me how i...

It has oil in it(added by rebuild company), however the box says to add the oil required for r-12 OR r-134a, making me think i should dump the oil out and use the qt of mineral oil i have to add what is required... napa online says 7 oz. Not trying to undermine you JJ. Would you run with what...

im regurgitating here... forged will stand up to detonation better then stock pistons. That said forged will give you more room for error to get things dialed in. Other wise stock- forged, the motor knows no difference and its up to you to keep things safe for a DD tune. You WILL destroy...

way to pop a youngn's bubble! :) 3 pounds for $60= decent price considering local prices (ebay has them for $30 a can unless you win a bid). Shop quotes $60 a lb... i know how much freon to use (1.35-1.65 lbs per underhood sticker) but how much oil do i add for a completely dry system...

If the mechanical timing marks are lining up, the cps should be near perfect timing at or around the middle of the adjustment range. If your having to use the extent of its range, something is not lined up right. Put it in the middle and worry about the cps timing after you get it started...

r12/gold found! $15 a can. All still sealed.