Compressor surge. Does your ssqv have a nut by the vacume line that you can twist? That's how you adjust the old model one's, the newer ones are non-adjustable. Name brand or knockoff?
If it's fluttering check all you ic pipes/hoses for leaks. Check all vacume hoses associated with the BOV...
That's what I was going to suggest ;). Glad you got it running again!
I thought that if the wastegate vacume line was messed up you would boost big time?
^Lol, they probably thought you were needing some KY jelly or something.
BTW: did you get a big can of (moly I'm guessing?) lube, or the smaller tube? How much did ARP charge you?
Is you PS pump making a whinning noise while running? Maybe it's got a slow leak in the injectors and is loading up on fuel in the cylinder/s while sitting. Then when you go to start it that built up fuel ignites, possibly making the "whoop" noise...:dunno:
I don't think the charcoal...
I'm just saying that getting an upgraded intercooler to go along with that will make a HUGE differece. Lower temps = more power @less psi ;).
BTW: My comp will not let me view your linky, damn firewall :3d_frown: .
I'm interested Aaron. Let us know the price, I'll more than likely hit you up ;).
BTW: the damn post office wouldn't drop off the exhaust stud kit you sent me, so I gotta remember to go there Saturday and pick it up :(.
The CBV (I think that's what the stock bypass valve is called) runs from the 3000 pipe (big pipe connected to your throttle body with "3000" stamped on it) to the CBV, Then the other side connected to the CBV goes to the accordian hose (conected to the turbo, it has a flex section on it the...
Do you mean afm? The stock air metering system in the supra is called the afm. The afm will add extra fuel for the unmetered air that's being blown off to the atmosphere, resulting in backfires and even stalling. Idle and acceleration should be fine, but each car will react differently to a BOV...
The freezing would be a good idea. The metal around the bolt would also cool down and shrink too. It would probably be best if you froze it all, and if they still didn't come out, heat the metal AROUND the bolt and quickly get the bolt outa there before it warms back up ;).
I've never done it myself, but from what I've read if it's a harness from the same year everything should plug back in except for the plugs that went to the auto tranny ;).
Hmm, I didn't know about the cycling deal. I only thought you were suppost the torque down to a certain amount first for all bolts, then torque down tighter again for all, then do the final torquing.
You are indeed the man John! ;)
Ninja edit: So do you just back off a stud/bolt like 1/4...
Whether it siezed or not doesn't matter, the damage has been done. A good thing to do would be to replace the harmonic balancer (I called it this because it's best to get one of those and not an underdrive crank pulley) and the water pump if needed (recomended) while servicing the rest of the...
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