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Well, i suppose thats completely true, but the core of mine didn't seem much smaller than the larger random technology cat it replaced. It just didn't possess the oval casing of the former unit. Plus i wanted a metal substrate rather than ceramic, because allegedly, they last a good deal longer...

I ask this, because i recently rebuilt the transmission in my 93 trooper, and every time i took it out of park or neutral, it would die. The engine wouldn't stumble and 'give out', it would shut off. Found out that i had left an external ground wire disconnected, that controlled the internal...

Yeah. I forget who mentioned it recently, but the stock rods are quite well engineered, and were comparable to domestic big block rods. Ive never seen a bent rod or broken rod, unless its because it went through the side of the block due to catastrophic rod knock/ bearing failure first. And...

Does your car run in neutral as well as park?

Plus, if you have forged pistons for a 450hp goal, you dont need to cryo treat. You already have the added strength.

Well, he said that the website incorrectly listed it as in stock, but they were actually being machined at the time.

Welcome to saturday. Did you get it tested?

Well, i finally heard back, and he said they weren't in stock, so he asked me if i wanted to wait, or refund. I said i'd rather get the refund, so that i could buy a few other items, including a head gasket.

I figure as much, Zach. And that's another reason why i dont mind cancelling my purchase.

Its a good idea, Orion, but that all hinges on me actually receiving the torque plate. I realized about 24hrs after i ordered it, that SIP racing was run by Rich S., whom has had numerous complaints about long wait times and even failure to ship orders. I have tried to call the phone number 4...

That's correct. But it is possible to find shops that have a 2JZ plate.

Listen to JJ. And put in a cat. I used one of these in my exhaust and it cleaned up my numbers. http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Thunderbolt-Metallic-Catalytic-Converter-High-Flow-Stainless-Steel-/140864264535?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20cc2a1957&vxp=mtr

I don't think there's a "better" choice, just what fits your engine's sensors/ecu. I'm pretty sure a few of the pinouts change, and thus you can't use a yellow plug ecu on a grey plug harness, and vise-versa.

Ah! Forgot you were doing the 2JZ. Nah, it takes a different plate. BUT, a 2JZ plate is alot more common at machine shops than a 7M. A 7M torque plate is about as common as a Chinese 'fro pick.

Well, I was gonna say if you were sending your block out, you could borrow the torque plate, but either way, doesn't sound like you need it.

Well, i dont believe that factory motors were torque plate bored/ honed, but the distortion is very small without it, and isnt as much of an issue with cast pistons and lower power levels. Are you sending a block out for work soon?

Good job. Did you buy a full rebuild kit?

I dont really understand putting a 1jz in a skyline, rather than an rb26 or rb28, unless the rb's are simply unavailable. To me, its like pulling a 351 cleveland out of a mustang in order to fit a 350 chevy motor in it. Either way though, it's a great car. Good luck with the wiring job.

You can fit the washers? Then fit the washers.

Do you mean how detrimental is it Not to use the plate? Not that much. You will usually end up with a slightly out-of-round cylinder without it, and therefore a slight compression loss, and oil consumption, but again, very slight. However, it becomes more of an issue when you go past 500+ hp. I...