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You know what- you got me worried, so I went into the garage and measured it. I'm not quite sure exactly where I'm supposed to measure it, as there are differences in height depending on whether you measure on the bead or not, but it is greater than 2.4mm at it's thinnest. Also, the SIP gasket...

Quick update: My machinist is almost done with the block prep. He's line bored it, balanced/polished the crank, decked it and checked the rods. just going to do the final hone and cleaning. He also took care of ordering my ARP mains, and all the clevite bearings. Received this today: Titan...

Fulcon tiers? Oh! Falken tires. And I've never heard of a Denim chip. He might have been trying to say Dinan chip. Which isn't for Toyota's, so I imagine he's lying. This other car sounds interesting, though.

I believe that Jeff no longer even has to look up the part numbers, he just knows them. $22.96 on Toyota parts zone

What am I looking at- is it a pre-oiler?

Congrats on chasing it down.

I'm not familiar with why you'd have to delete the charcoal cannister for a JDM motor, unless the port on the throttle body isn't there? But the ground under the intake is an eyelet-type ground, of a few wires together. It bolts on the inderside of the intake. Where in GA are you located? I'm...

Ah. And you live where? Seriously, there are some people that can live without it, but I still don't see a need to remove it, either.

I think that just went over my head, but i'm ok with that.

The timing belt slipped a tooth, and popped the clutch... what? As for the electrical, Check to make sure the wiring harness grounds are connected- most importantly, the one under the #6 intake runner. If that's off, all kinds of wacky crap can happen.

I bet it was. All my gospel comes from Australia. :)

Wiseco +.020. I cant tell you how i like them yet, but like Dan said, they sure are pretty.

I dunno why anybody deletes the csi. It improves driveability, and in no way hampers performance. And for that matter, why do people delete the egr system? My 500+ hp motor will be retaining everything, including the evap system, ac, fan clutch, and cruise control.

Update, SIP refunded my money, just as promised. And i turned around and sent back half of it for a 2mm mhg. I also sent an order to Arizona performance for the oil supply tube kit. Machinist is working on my block as i type this.

Yeah, i thought you were gonna start it, you co@ktease.

If you're just going for power and not 'wow' factor, i would stick with a single turbo. Way too many plumbing hassles.

Yes, but i believe its only one of the two cams thats different. You said you're going twin turbo- are you using two ct26's?

Well spoken, sir. I respect a man that laughs at himself after a goof. I sometimes have stomach pains from all the laughing i do at myself. When i read this post, i was thinking the same thing as Poodles, as when i reinstalled mine, i tried it upside down as well, and had the interference.

Check your crank pulley. If it loosens up, it will sound exactly like rod knock. And i disagree with just about everybody on the bearing replacement. It will NOT be a gauranteed fix for rodknock. If you pull the old bearings and find a few that are damaged, you still dont know the condition of...

Looking good.