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If it were me, driving 95% of the time on the street, I would use a sprung hub disc. That shudder/clunk might be a warp in the flywheel, if it was overheated... OR it could be looseness in a drivetrain component, OR a bad ujoint/cv...OR a crack in the rear subframe...OR a bad rear spherical...

Leakdown or compression test after rebuild might not be too conclusive, if you have honed the cylinders and/ or replaced the rings. They need time to seat. PS- If I was only pushing 12psi or less on a stock turbo, I'd probably go with a composite hg and ARP's, especially if you suspect a less...

Did you check for coolant in the oil, or oil in the coolant?

LOL. Nice. PS- The black guy does make it in Armageddon.

I ALWAYS dab petroleum jelly on the opening of the fuel rail, rather than the injector O-ring. I've never once had an injector leak. Check for sharp edges around those openings, as Poodles suggests.

^ this. A block of wood is a great tool.

Damn. Thats a good price. Mine is: Block checked and tanked Linebore mains Overbore and hone cylinders Deck Check and polish crank Balance crank Size rods ~ $1400. This will include all bearings, and arp mains.

You can get brand new upper control arms for pretty cheap.

No, looks like i'll probably be sitting at my computer, ordering the Spec 2+ clutch when the apocalypse hits. Knowing that i won't complete it before armageddon is a bit disappointing, but at least working on the Supra keeps me from getting too down about it.

How could it possibly have rod knock if all the rod clearances were checked during install? Is it making good oil pressure? Or is it possibly piston slap?

I would lay a head gasket over that head surface, to see if any of that corrosion will impinge upon the sealing surfaces. If it does, you either gotta shave it more, or toss it.

Yeah, with what little we have to go by, I would agree with Planemos.

Got my Arizone performance oil supply kit, just a couple of shots to show comparison:

Look at the TSRM to troubleshoot some of this stuff, like testing the fuel pump- it's easy. And look at the TEWD to determine what harnesses those are, I'm not sure.

Cool. I had bought a brand new set of control arms, and didn't want to destroy brand new bushings, but I found that pushing them out really didn't hurt them. I did this: Same idea, just a different tool. :)

That is an R154 tranny. If the car has TEMS, get Tockico Illumina 2's, for about $450, and get some HR or Eibach springs, for a comfortable, yet sporty ride/ look. I used to have a VW as well, and some of them are Motronic style with a big fuel distributor, while others of the same year were...

I thought it was more of a K-Jetronic system, like the 75-83 Z cars. And I'm glad to see you restoring this car. 99% of the people on here have an emotional attatchment to their Supras, so it's definately worth it to fix, so long as it's worth it to YOU.

Sounds good. ps- I had the Mille Miglia 1000's as my first wheels, too.

It's actually an SIP racing gasket.

Yup. Doing some quick calculations, and assuming a normal amount of material removal by the machine shop, a 3mm head gasket would put me aroun 8:1 CR.