I believe it was a number 4 bearing there. Clearance was on the high side of being in spec.
But the thing is.. I'm using the crank out of the block the machine shop cracked, in a different block. Is it mere coincidence that that one journal matches up with the one in the block? This is so...
I guess my only explanation is the number 6 journal was machined at one point.. Along with the number 6 main bore.. Which makes no sense to me.
I'll have things re-measured just to double check.. The main bearing bore is only .0002 off, so it could just be human/tool error, and I could see...
I only need one which is why I'm still debating getting the Toyota bearings. I pmed Jeff on the topic, so hopefully he replies quickly. Also, I will be ordering the bearings (if I decided to go toyota.. Im still on the fence.. then jumping to one side.. then climbing up the fence again.. lol)...
Thank you! That is exactly the answer I was looking for. Since they come in sets of two, I'll probably end up getting the Toyota bearings. I will also take the rods that are in question to another shop and have him measure them up.
And where do I get the oversize bearing? I don't see it in the...
Exactly my thoughts.. I thought it would be a total of 300, with thrust washers.. Which would probably be about the same as clevites + having the crank cut. If its per half.. then its close to 600 for bearings. NOT doing that.
Huge update! Got my block back from the machine shop, it looks great! I'll just let the pictures do the talking.
I don't have pictures of the crank because all it looks like is a cleaned 7M crankshaft.. lol
I also made my own center valley cover...
After some trimming and cutting...
I only see 2 sets of part numbers for 1,2,3,4, and 5 in the EPC though.. PN is 11071-43010-(bearing size) or 110701-43010-(bearing size)
Edit: I assume the difference in PN is for 6M vs. 7M crank?
Connecting rods
1 #4 bearing
2 (Rod was 2.1672, but the #3 only goes to 2.1671.. So I used that..) #4 bearing
3 #4 bearing
4 #4 bearing (I'm starting to see a trend..)
5 #4 bearing
6 (again, rod was 2.1672, but I just went with #3, as its only .0001 off..) #4 bearing
Main journals
1...
Okay, I think I have it figured out. I feel really stupid right now.. The chart was just confusing me for some odd reason. I'll figure out the bearing sizes and post em up soon.
I'm tired of waiting for machine work to be done, and the shop would probably charge me the difference in cost between a set of clevites and a set of toyota bearings. So I'm just going with toyota bearings.
So should I just choose the closest one? Some of them are only .0001 or .0002 off
And...
I am lost as to selecting bearing sizes for Toyota select fit. I had the machine shop measure all the journal sizes, but I don't know how to figure out what size of bearing I need.
for example, Con. rod 1 = 2.1669, which is a 3 in the TSRM. Rod journal 1 is 2.0468 which is - in the TSRM. So...
In all reality, they just cut up the pre 91 door panels and fitted a new frame sort of thing for the speaker grill. If you could obtain the grilles and the frames its very possible to convert them. However, I've never seen a 91+ door panel in person.
I just used Napa gear oil and their LSD additive. The diff isn't noisy, and usually will spin both tires. I only ever had trouble when it was cold outside, it liked to spin one. And when I first put the diff in, but thats irrelevant. I'm sure thats from sitting for 3 years.
Instead of using a piece of pvc pipe, I just used a socket. I believe (don't quote me on this) it was a 10mm. Could be smaller though. Just a dab of grease to hold the seals in, and then used my palm on the socket to press them on. Make sure that they click twice! Most of mine did, and the ones...
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