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Condensation...

Anybody else wanna chime in?

My distributor has a notch for alignment on it. Its from a 90 though Sent from my HTC Rezound using Tapatalk

Don't force it in. You don't want too much pressure on the tool, otherwise it will force the threads into the head, making it harder to remove. If that makes sense. Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk

Key word probably. Have faith!

Im talking more about frame damage. Gonna need a slight pull on the front and probably a bigger pull on the rear. Thats where it really gets costly. Plus its never going to be exactly straight ever again. Atleast thats my look on it.

Problem its not really only what you see in the pic. Sure, a new bumper front and rear with bumper covers would cost less than 1k.. But theres way more damage hiding behind that bumper..

So, so far the general consensus is that this is normal, and that I would be fine running this?

Since there's only minor scoring on the second journal on the intake side, but all the caps are excessively scored, would it be a good idea to get a set of used caps?

Started disassembling the head I was going to put on my N/A when going N/A-T, but now im reconsidering. I know scoring is normal in 7Ms, but isn't this excessive? Intake: Exhaust: Intake cam scoring: Sorry for the slightly blurry pictures, I was cold and shivering

Barkz, leave the flaming for Supraforums..

Theres no point to them. In a MacPherson strut design, all the side to side force that would be going to the upper control arm (attached to the subframe of course) is going to the upper strut mount, causing it to flex. Hence the strut bar. In a double wishbone design, all the side to side force...

Remove the screws holding the trim on.

I assume hes talking about the mating surfaces. Ive always wondered how to get all the gasket material off without it falling into the oil and coolant galleys..