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I also believe the Titan head gasket is also just a rebranded cometic.. for a lot cheaper too. Sent from my HTC Rezound using Tapatalk 2

Do NOT get a k&n oiled filter. They WILL kill your AFM with a quickness. Get an AEM Dryflo or equivalent. Sent from my HTC Rezound using Tapatalk 2

The rears kinda look progressive but the fronts look exactly like factory springs. They definitely don't look like eibachs Sent from my HTC Rezound using Tapatalk 2

Yes he did. I plan on it, but I'm going to be running just a filter right off the bat. Full flow cooler will probably be my first upgrade. And with the 0-30, we'll see what my pressure is with the 40 is first. IJ ran something rediculous like 20-60 I wanna say.. Sent from my HTC Rezound using...

Sorry for the lack of updates. So I have the bottom end put together, minus the oil pump and pump drive. The rod clearances are about .002 as well. IJ set his clearances at this and they are also under the Max clearance in the TSRM. I will probably end up running 5w-40 oil though. I also...

Ended up refurbing my other gte harness.. didn't even check the connectors because I thought it was just trash. Turns out its better than my other harness and has the correct connectors! Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

But see, that page you linked only matches the body side connectors. I don't know what does what on the harness side. And I also don't know what the wide white plug is for.. it only has two wires going to it, but the connector in my old n/a harness has 6 iirc Sorry if I'm asking to be spoon...

So where do the A/C fans plug in? I checked my old harness and there aren't connectors for them.. I get the C1 plug now, but how do I match up the body plugs? That link only has the yellow plug and grey plug, not the two different kinds of grey plug plugs.. EDIT: According to that page, the B3...

The plugs in question Body harness plugs Corresponding harness plugs The smallest one does actually plug in... Six pin plug by fuse box Corresponding harness plug (dunno what else it would go to...) Two plugs that I cant find a plug for on the harness. And yes, those of you...

So. I've pretty much come to the wiring stage for the swap.. I figured everything would plug right in... :nono: Only one plug under the dash plugs in, and theres two plugs that are coming from under the fusebox that go to nothing, along with a 6 pin connector that isn't the same as the 6 pin...

Exactly what I was thinking... Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

I really don't see the need for a flex section at all on the downpipe.. For reasons already mentioned in this thread.

Do you have to remove the studs to get it on? With the studs off I think it would be a lot easier, then just replace with bolts.. EDIT: pretty much decided to just wait to put the head on, but I'm not gonna wait to assemble the head lol. My one major concern is getting the sealer where its...

Unless you're coming from the Honda scene, you'll be wanting that interior back the instant it leaves your hands.

One other question.. With a MLS head gasket, is it possible to put on the lower timing cover AFTER putting the head on? I wouldn't think so.. But just wanted to double check..

A full shadow grey interior in good condition will probably sell for $1000+ Personally I'd keep it and save up for coilovers.. Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

Well I'll call up Napa and order those bearings today. Thanks for the help! Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

$90 for a factory gasket or $140 for a metal.. save $50 and you're there. Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

I'll go and ask them then. I called a store and actually went into my local NAPA store and they said they didn't stock anything.. But I'll ask them about cam bearings then. On a side note, does anybody know what the little eccentric is for on the tail end of the oil pump drive? I figured fuel...

I guess I was just hoping for a quick fix. So you're saying I should just get Toyota bearings and have my machinist cut the shaft down a couple thou?