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Ive had the same problem in the past. The rear main seal fails because the drive shaft is either bent or unbalanced.

Search trim by poster IJ. (with a period) Trim shouldn't be your only concern as its only a reference number. I can show you a 50 trim thats larger than a 60 trim.

The pop noise you heard was the efi system shutting completely down. The 15amp fuse is the EFI fuse. Pop it back in and the car should fire up enough to get home. Then, check for shorts or electrical problems. If you short the o2 sensor wires out on the block or manifold, you can...

VSV for the egr.

Great stuff Suze! Wheres your appearance besides the reflection? BTW, those are the fastest headlights I have ever seen!

I think mine was monkeyd with... its off about 450ish RPMS according to the SAFC display.

Grounds or bad signal wire connection. The later would explain why it starts after you tap on it as you are jaring the connection.

Its the same ports you jump to get the CEL to come on.

If you're trying to time it - you need to have the check engine terminals jumped in the diagnostic box. It will jump around if you don't.

So is it good

Yes IT IS. Define the term "was" mr rumptis.

Theres also a seal puller with a round weight welded on the side. You insert the hook into the seal, and then hammer on the weight - wala seal comes out.

You need a seal puller.

So I was right? :-)

If the needle is bouncing, the cable is dry and needs lubed.

Do like I did - cut the crack out. Flare the end and install a -6 flare nut. Install a metric (not sure what size) to -6 fuel fitting into the fuel filter and you're golden.

Just make sure you leave my TSRM behind please.

Life's too short to play with balls. Real men have wheels. But, if I had to do any "ball sport" it would be baseball. Beer, Nachos, and stadium dogs FTMFW!

IIRC tein makes a pretty mean spring.