Stick welding is not a good exhaust weld.
Typically flux core mig, or just straight mig is the industry standard.
If you go into the racing world, its TIG all the way.
Your timing is supposed to advance and retart when running at different temps and rpms.
YOU MUST JUMP THE DIAGNOSTIC PORTS (JUST LIKE YOU'RE READING A CEL) BEFORE YOU CAN CHECK THE TIMING.
Paul:
Check to make sure you didn't crush or rip any wires off the water temp sensors (notice plurar) when you reinstalled the turbo.
Also, check to make sure you didn't forget a rag or paper towel in the turbo (in case you stuffed on in there to keep debris out when it was off the car)...
It could be a number of things.
First, check to make sure your boost hoses are crack and leak free.
If they aren't we call this a boost leak. This will make your car run off beat.
Do a compression test. Sometimes a bad cyl or leaking valves will cause the car to not run in the vacuum...
To a degree. Underhood temps are underhood temps, although radiated heat from the exhaust system could soak into the catch can.
Also, make sure the can sees vacuum. Do not put a breather on it. You will blow main seals all day long.
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