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The igniter is one thing that I will endorse a swap with a known good unit just to save time.

Well, Toyota did. It should be noted that 14.7:1 is done for the catalytic converter. Toyota does not use a wideband on this car. So the aftermarket devices are for tuning by the user, not the engine control unit. I wanted to read this thread for the title alone. Have you checked for an...

Learn it, and then go to summit racing to see what an NHRA battery box looks like.

Lamarossa, I think, did much better. Or whomever it was that created frankensteins monster.

Removing vacuum lines wouldn't increase vacuum. A bigger restriction in the intake manifold or piping when when the engine is on the intake stroke increases it.

You coat the bearings in oil, and it lightens the noise. That is actually typical. Forged pistons can slap when cold. Ever hear an old 5.0 Mustang start cold?

Look for loose grounds and other loose wires. Does the tack drop to zero or merely hesitate when this happens.

People I know that actually pull plugs don't do it on this car. Heads with inline valves and rocker arms.

There are quite a few mods that aren't actually justified on this car.

Throw in a 1JZ. You will never have a dead battery again.

1JZ doesn't get rod knock. It is a 7m thing. Don't you know anything?

If you bought a manual valve, why do you want to block it?

He could always fabricate a manifold and blow through carb if he wants to throw parts in the garbage so bad.

You have a product description for AEM? They have their own forum. For Toyota, and everybody for that matter, you have to have engine position and speed sensors to operate the fuel injection system. Toyota cutting the fuel without spark is fairly common. You don't want the cat filling up...

Well if a coil pack not firing isn't a misfire, what do you think is a misfire then?

IJ, I'm not as old as you. :biglaugh: And while my 1/4 mile amature competitive days are hung up, friends still pull the plugs at the track and check color. Nothing like a full load to know for sure.

You need a replacement intake pipe. Is that what you mean? The car doesn't have a MAF sensor.

You get rid of a dry start by starting it with oil. If you did a rebuild, you need to pack the pump with the same lube that is used on the bearings. Something like Lubriplate 105. You are getting rid of your 1JZ?

.08 is too high. 50 milliamps is too much. Batteries are perishable. You can't expect it to sit, although 3 weeks isn't long. Consider the batteries you are buying after you check for a parasitic draw.

Yes, more compression equals more heat. Heat and pressure go up together. So what? That is normal. A/C on is everything. And that isn't too hot. Are you going by your stock gauge in the dash?