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Have you seen the autoshop101 website? It has most of the TCCS OBD and OBDII EFI technical articles Toyota has published for technicians. Nearly everthing is there.

When you take your foot off the throttle pedal, the dashpot lets the throttle close slowly. As soon as the contacts close, voltage goes to ground and the ECU sees the throttle as closed to initiate fuel cut. If cut is needed. This only takes a moment, like less than a second.

Did they say why? Did you ask just for a rehone or something? The block is probably out of round from usage. I bought stock .5mm over in 2003. 7 years ago is quite some time, and stock is not exactly a good deal considering it is a cast piston.

They made a production change and didn't change numbers. Just like Toyota to be difficult about something like this. I will look at the box and see if it has manufacturing on the label for refrence. I never tapped the top of it. It sure is plastic. And the new one says "MADE IN CHINA" on the...

I took a picture of the oil feed and return so you can see it. This is the only thing close to difficult, and it is easier than the CT26. Although the turbo is bigger and flows more, the total mass is less, and you can actually see and start nuts on the studs somewhat easily.

It is in the build luxocruiser thread. I can believe Taiwan, it looks like something that came in 99 and new Toyotas like the Celica's and such. Meaning aluminum and plastic...

IDL is the contact indicating the throttle is closed or open. It is throttle position, not engine speed. But your assertion that at higher rpm it isn't likely is correct. The contacts just have to be not touching to show its voltage insted of ground. And what happens is the throttle is closed...

Then again, 15 to 12 isn't a huge drop. And the engine is moving a lot of air at 5500 rpm.

I just ordered and got a timing belt, the tensioner spring and the idler pulley. And it was a local dealer that doesn't stock anything. They did order it out, but that is ok. You should be able to get a timing belt. 13568-49015 is the number on the timing belt package. Jeff Lange can double...

It took a while to get the right radiator. The system lists the wrong piece by year and model look up, but the correct one by the VIN. Anyway, the new one is the new Toyota style, plastic and aluminum. I have mixed feelings on it. It weighs less. Great. I hope the plastic end tanks don't fall...

My shadow gray leather is only a little darker than the cloth velour seats shown. The rear hatch cloth is actually a dark gray. I ordered and got the coin holder with the lid in front of the center console/armrest. So you can still get that piece. Or at least Champion had it. Also, if you order...

My first thought is the CT26 exhaust housing. Do you have a big downpipe? I didn't see it in the list. I say that because what you are describing is not uncommon on the CT26.

A fan wouldn't make you overheat. The auxillary fans come on with the A/C or high temps. If the system is off, then the compressor is not running, unless you have custom wiring done incorrectly with the system.

CP? Equador? Does the tach fluctuate when you crank the engine? If it does, you could have the rare bad ECU. Don't count on it. The best thing to do is use a scope that ECU. See that it is or isn't recieving the pick up signal.

I don't get it. You have the A/C button depressed but it isn't on? You needed a radiator, coolaing fan, or maintenance of the two items. Such as dirt on the front that you don't see, or maybe the fan clutch had leaked its viscous fluid. Or maybe even the fan did not turn on. The extra heat...

As mentioned, they are the same. However, it is only the larger body of the 1UZ unit you want.

Then you need to watch the digial screen. Deflection is the needle movement all the way across in one sudden motion.

It means the analog meter needle jumps.

Your house isn't on wheels is it? Because it seems none of your cars are.

Floor mats?