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What I have seen is the little donut gaskets Toyota uses that have deteriorated from old age. They make a light put put noise most people don't even hear over the car. That happened more with the OBD II cars with the pre and post cat, and the cat is seperate piece. I don't know if his sensor...

How much extra did you add? Meaning what extra did you add? Because your curb weight is about 3640. My guess starts with the audio system. :)

That you thought it was abnormal for the resevoir to raise its level when warm.

What isn't a byproduct? A little smoke? Or your smoke. I hope you mean yours. :) Typically on valve seals, it only smokes on start up. Smoke all the time is usually a worn engine.

That isn't overflow, that is an expansion tank for hot and cold.

Your stock intake is a cold air intake. The K&N flows more air, but is not a cold air intake. It will draw from under the hood. I have seen some reports about the dry flow filters, such as the one sold from AEM. Look into that, and use a shield to block engine heat and fan flow.

I would want to see the smoke. Because a bone stock car in good running condition will put out a little smoke if you snap the throttle open. It is a byproduct.

Front wheel drive has a transaxle.

So you didn't pull codes yet? DTC's don't always give an exact answer, but it might tell you something is wrong.

I think it has retained its mostly stock appearance. I asked for a non polished compressor housing on the Jr, and SS obliged. Not for sleeper to blast people, to keep it looking original.

Front or rear wheel drive? I didn't see the year. Front wheel drive, you will do far more fabricating, or sacrifice.

I have an observation for low boost. As in 4 psi. At 4 psi it is moving more air than a CT26. But because the wastegate isn't set, it doesn't have that boost pull, but still is nice. The engine feels bigger. Not that I will leave it that way. I just don't want to run 18 psi until I get a tune.

Your injectors are run through a resistor. They get power from the EFI system when the key is in the on position or starting. The ECU provides the ground. It is not likely you have an EFI problem yet have good spark. Do you have an EWD (electrical wiring diagram)...

The cylinder bores are honed to get exact clearnace with your piston. They didn't do the hone yet. Unless they are total idiots of machinists, and my guess is they are not. They only did the rough cut, the bore part.

Well, if it sparks then the EFI system is likely running correctly and you have a mechanical fault. Like the solenoid resistor not being plugged in and no power to the injectors.

How did you get it home? The first thing you can do is pull codes.

Eh. The return was not bolted in. The nuts were just started, it straightened out more when clamped down. Thanks for noticing. :stickpoke

The tach will tell you if the CPS is putting out a signal. If it lies dead, that doesn't tell much other than what you already know. If it moves with rpm, you either lost the wiring to the ECU or the ECU itself is bad. The bad ECU is rare. That is why you check at the ECU with a scope.

I just realized there is not a hole for the bolt that holds the dipstick tube. I will have to fabricate. Take note if you get one. Also, there is one stud and one threaded hole missing for the heat shield. So you can't reuse it unless ou fabricate a little bit. Which most of you like doing anyway.

The stamped ND number has an update. My original, and this radiator looked 19 years old, had a number of 422170-0840. The new ND number is 422170-0842, with the only difference being the aluminum core. It must have been on my build thread where I said it took a while to get the right one. If you...