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Swapping cars and keeping the exhaust? Lol...only SM.

Why are you putting a turbo exhaust on a non turbo car? http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291210/catalog.aspx?F=1702&P=3 http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291210/catalog.aspx?F=1702&P=2

Correction factors are just that. They are minor corrections to the main input, which is airflow and engine speed.

Even at 10 psi, you will still be very rich. Apples to oranges, with the 57 Boss Jr and 550's, I am 9.8:1 at 10 psi. They Toyota program is quite rich, which is needed to cool the charge of a boosted engine.

Don't forget Lamarossa. To each his own I guess. I vote neither. Black is the best, and my car is bright red. I think the dark Toyota navy blue looks much better than yellow.

I might not have moved over to a 5.0. Well, yes I would have. I don't like the GM sensor. From a technician point of view. I asked Pro-M back in 2002 or 2003 if they would build a MAF off the vane air flow meter, and they said "hell ye$". I agree, it is a much better route than speed density.

That would have caused a dead miss.

Besides putting gas in the tank? I am quite sure the first thing in the owners manual says check gas. I don't have mine handy so I can't look. If the car is off, the fuel pump is shut down. You have to mete certain conditions for the ECU to activate the fuel pump relay. With aftermarket...

Why not use the correct tree?

Put a jumper between TE1 and E1. Then count the flashes. The map in on the inside of the lid.

Feels like yesterday.

Almost like a small fuel leak. Or a cat that just doesn't work good enough.

You even spelled "a lot" correctly. Well done.

Horsepower increases with rpm. Provided you don't have a large drop in rotating force (torque). If you unplug it, there isn't vacuum on the valve, and it opens all the way. By design. In the opening post, you said you lost power up high.

Not bad. Consider that many stock LS1's were good for 240-250 on a Mustang dyno. They were good for 280-300 on a Dynojet.

How about adding fuel instead of scaling back the airflow signal? Yeah, more heat = less advance.

The fundamentals are not different between assembly of a domestic and a Toyota. Toyota is not unique with select fit bearings, although they are not common either.

You really bought a new(not really) starter from the worst place without any testing? 1. Your new starter could be bad 2. You have a igntion control problem; the key applies switched power to the relay circuit, the main power wire could be loose on the stud, bad battery (loose plate)

You can possibly linked up correctly with the range selector switch. If you move in park, you are not in park. The parking pawl prevents it. A car will have mild deflection, like a weight shift if you put it in park. He doesn't sound like he knows anything. Or you are not giving all the...