Search results

I am going to link to another site, and forums don't generaly like it. But they are not competitive against this board, so I don't think they will mind. http://www.lextreme.com/forums/index.php People do dumb things to be different. Do something smart. It isn't the easiest thing, but it...

5.5-7.5 stock out of the turbo, depending on load. 4.8-6.0 with an automatic trans.

It doesn't shift based on RPM, but on road speed. 5500 is about normal. Your time frame doesn't mean much. That isn't about you personaly, just people see things different. In actual time, the downshift should be quicker than 1 second. But not by much.

So you would be able to tune properly a Lex meter that has the screw all the way in to its stop, instead of backed out to create a false (slower) signal?

That and the retarded hard Toyota engine blocks. ---------- Post added at 01:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:52 AM ---------- Is that including the shell?

If you can run a more aggresive tune, then don't you think your current tune would be just fine?

If you think about the real name for an intercooler, which is "charge air cooler", that says a lot. The volume or mass coming in does not change. But the effeciency of it does. You need to run it on the dyno for your tuen. But the general rules are you could run a more aggressive tune, as...

The only reason to open them is very high miles or damage. Toyota uses low tension rings leading to the lack of ridges. By the way, nice ride. It looks good so far.

I have never seen a ridge on a Toyota. I have seen the cross hatch gone, but the engine also had over 200k on it.

You could also use a steel mallet and rubber tubing.

Talk about your all time money wasting ideas. They do one thing on a GTE, shorter intercooler routing. Often they enlarge the plenum, but that isn't what front facing is for. You can enlarge a plenum without rerouting. ---------- Post added at 03:21 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:17 AM...

Except let a whole lot of air in the engine during cranking mode which isn't running mode.

Yeah, have the switch provide ground to the relay control side, and the power of your choice, such as the existing 15A fuse. Considering you could take 5 minutes pulling the interior pieces off and putting them on right in 5 minutes, it could take you a few extra minutes.

My suggestion is you shouldn't do anything to the fog lights, but redo the relay which is low current. Leave the main circuits alone. I haven't read the 87, but what JJ said does sound really stupid. Use the switch to provide ground to the relay. Minimal wiring. It could look similar to the...

Way to represent. Block, crank, and head are what make an engine its brand. Though I have seen some call their race motor BBC, when the only thing Chevy in it is the offset ground crank.

Toyota didn't set a max spec at .001" warpage on the block to sell parts. That would be embarassing to a Japanese company. While GM, Ford, and Chrysler would have went out of their way up through the 70's to do just that. Them and their 5 digit odometers. Sorry for the derail. Back to o-ring.

On a side note, regardless of headgasket thickness, you are probably way out of spec, and deck thickness is compromised. Not that money grows on trees, but you should *consider* a less worn long block.

Here you go. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=50