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Cooling system is pressurized... Find the leak. This includes doing a test to check for exhaust gasses in the coolant.

PVC Leather = NOT LEATHER Whoever quoted you $1000 to redo your front seats is out of their mind...

Cheap seats = dead in a wreck Also, you really need to sit in racing seats before buying. They're like shoes, some are bigger than others, ect...

np ;)

Correct. rhdjapan.com carries them. If they don't have it on their site (they don' just looked), shoot em an email and they'll get it.

That's actually about right for it's value (going by KBB). Getting it is completely your call though...

S2 makes an exhaust close to that as well.

Should have also explained the reasoning behind this. If you idle until the engine is warmed up, only the engine is warm. The tranny, diff, tires, ect aren't up to temp yet.

Yep, gonna need to strengthen the rear setup a bit...

Idling promotes more wear. Start up, fiddle with things in car (seatbelt, stereo station, ect), check oil pressure (good pressure?), then drive away. Drive nice until it warms up. Once warm do what you wish.

You're paying a premium for a bolt-on turbo only to not use it as a bolt on...

Mine has the tab. If it doens't have a tab it's worthless and you might as well run an open downpipe... Edit: it has to be precise for it to seal properly. Too long and youleak from the flange (or crack it), too short and it leaks out the dump pipe. Also, location is important, too high...

I have the original chinese made DDP (same thing as this). Doesn't leak at the falnge, but the divider isn't tight (not like it's going to matter, they all will leak) and fitment isn't good. Not to mention the flex section is in the wrong place and is in the perfect place to snag speedbumps...

NA vs Turbo...

Not to mention anodising makes the part larger in every dimension. They make slightly oversized taps so you don't have to retap after anodising which will remove the anodising in the threads. Also depends entirely on the anodising done.

It rotates the turbine housing 90 degrees and you'll have a fun time making a new downpipe and fitting it. It's also pointless since the CT is the bottleneck, not the manifold... Degree on SF did this, and we all laughed at him...

Helicoil works fine (mine is done, not by me) but you MUST remove the tang on the coil once it's in or it will dent the top. Time-sert would be better. Also, the driver's side strips because the top is tightened in the wrong sequence. Tighten the back 2, then the driver's side front, then...

As with all sales.... Also ask yourself "why are they selling this car?" If it because they need the money? Or is it because it has issues that are well hidden? You're also in Cali. 1J = ILLEGAL

Yeah, it's why I posted they used lexan, not the same material.

Same, it just has a block-off plate where the EGR cooler goes.