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Good deal. Safety glass are a must at times too. I've seen people do some amazingly stupid stuff around cars. I have a great photo of a guy working under a truck tipped up 45 degrees, held with 2 X 4s. Between working around toxic and flammable chemicals, high current electricity, hot or...

I usually jack the entire front or back. When I jack a corner I use the sub frame. I always use a 6 inch piece of 2 X 4 on the jack to get a bit of extra height and to protect things. For front or rear jacking I've placed a dymo label (or use tape) on the jack handle that corresponds to either...

Yes, just leave it. But plug the port on the TB or you'll have unmetered air. Not dangerous. In fact that was one way it was done before emissions testing came along. Much like the old draft tubes took care of PCV. What could be a tad risky is just leaving it to vent into the engine compartment...

Again, what mr nickleye said. Seems he knows his smog stuff pretty well. High CO is indicative of a rich mixture. The converter may bring it down if it's not too high but it's life will be impacted. The cat only works best if the composition of the exhaust stream is kept within a narrow range...

Yeah, you need to vent the fuel tank. Gasoline has a pretty high vapor pressure. Spill some on the ground and it's flashes (evaporates) off in a few minutes. If you block the tank vent line those vapors have nowhere to go so tank pressure builds up, epsecially when the fuel is warm. A little...

Yeah, good point. That'll show up in the oil pretty quick too. Either way, he's taking a chance by driving it until it's figured out.

Nothing like a pair of broken nipples to spoil your day eh? If you don't have the evap canister installed (you should vent the fuel tank down low btw) you don't need the vacuum bimetallic switching valve. Just be sure to cap off the port on the throttle body or anywhere along the pipe leading to it.

If it is the head gasket it could be fine for days before it acts up again but eventually it'll get progressively worse. I'd still either pressure test the system or put a combustion gas checker on it. The first will find any external leaks while the second will rule out the HG. And understand...

You're welcome. The RTFM comment was not intended to spank you, it's simply a conveinent way to make the point. I'll admit though, I'm sorely tempted to use it a lot more than I do ;)

You can check the AFM either by ringing it out as per the manual or measuring the signal using the frequency measuring function any decent DMM has after checking to see if the AFM has a good supply voltage and ground. Of course, a scope would be better but a DMM will do. As I recall it's around...

I agree. It's always best to approach a problem with an open mind and troubleshoot so as to prove a diagnosis a minimum of two ways. Pressure testing and checking for combustion gases in the coolant for example. That said, taking all the symptoms into consideration my money is on the head...

What shaeff said. If your O2 sensor isn't cross counting the TCCS will go into a open loop and the engine will run slightly rich. And if it's not even connected it's no wonder you're getting that code. In fact the MIL should've been on the entire time.

23-25 mpg with Lex AFM, 550s, 3" DP and catback running slightly more than stock boost. That's driving somewhat "normally", ie; only getting on it occasionally during freeway on-ramps, passing, ect. Then again, I own a 5 gas analyzer and the car gets checked out twice a year with even the...

Yes to both questions. On the EGR you can either block the pipe or cap off the port on the throttle body. On FPU VSV just hook the hoses together or run a new one from the FPR to the intake manifold. Don't leave the FPR disconnected or fuel pressure will not track manifold pressure. Look at the...

I dunno what you've been smokin' but I want some ;)

Remove the bulbs and measure each pigtail or each socket. You should get infinity (open circuit) in all cases. If you measure anything less than infinity you need to track it down. The bulbs will be only a few ohms when installed. Measure one not installed and compare it to what you get on the...

Well it's not too complicated but you're right, the current must be limited (leds are still diodes remember).whether using 1 or 100. The formula is system voltage minus the led's specified forward voltage (Vf) divided by the current desired (not to exceed the led's specified max current)...

Well no wonder, you replaced just about everything in the system. That's cheating ;)

Now now, he asked you guys to be kind. But yikes, no kidding. I've seen Lamp Modules go for $5 on ebay. What bulbs did you put in? Remove them or disconnect the wiring from the tail lights (including the CHSL if it's incandescent) then try it. Or ohm the light assemblies out to see where the...

Well, if you never let the pump suck air you're not going to get foam. I'd still either install a filter or swap out the tank fluid every 5 K miles or so. It'll give you a chance to keep an eye on the suction screen too. And fwiw, you'll have less problems if you stop refering to the car in the...