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AFM output on a stock 7MGTE is a 5 volt square wave with the frequency varying with airflow. It's around 20-30 hz at 700 rpm, 90-100 hz at 2500 rpm and 160-180 hz at 4000 rpm. Exact setting depends on how the AFM was calibrated to that engine using the bleed screw. Look for a two digit code...

If it's pegged at max you have either defective sensor or a short to ground. Unplug the sensor and see what the gauge does. If it goes down you have a bad sensor. A quick way to test the wiring and gauge is to short the connector to ground for a moment. This should drive the gauge to max. Don't...

From a quick look at this gadget I don't see how it can do ISC, either using the current stepper valve or another air bypass device. Maybe I'm missing something but it has neither the functionality or the required outputs to do it. It wasn't designed for this. The stock ISC system deals with...

d3fc0n: Glad you got it figured out. Cockpit error eh? I'd ask what bulbs you used but you didn't answer. Using a meter would've also found that very quickly. For eveyone: The module is different depending on if the CHMSL is incan or LED but you can use either by changing the calibration...

What GrimJack said. It's called a diversity antenna system. Just use the other one or replace the mast if that's all that's busted. I replaced my entire power antenna years ago but the odd part is I left it unplugged so it doesn't extend. Works fine but that may not fly if you don't live in an...

Not required although it's good to do for other reasons. Allows one to check out valve deposits for example.

Sorry, just wanted to find out for myself what a complete idiot sounds like. Much of that is taken from here: http://media.ebaumsworld.com/retro.wmv . How the guy can keep a straight face is beyond me. Fwiw, throwing parts at a problem and crossing your fingers is a poor way to do things. I'd...

Sounds like a problem with the compubar. Try applying inverse reactive current to the unilateral phase detractors. If that doesn't do it try automatically synchronizing the sensor mount's cardinal gram meters. Toyota originally used a retro-encabulator that employed remodial magneto reluctance...

Well, what do you mean by "operating temp"? An O2 sensor needs to be at about 600 degrees to operate. The exhaust gases will get it there long before the engine reaches normal temp. This normally happens a few minutes after starting or even sooner if driving. Heated oxygen sensors were designed...

In days of yore the crankcase was vented overboard using a line run to the bottom of the chassis. At the end of this line was a tube cut and positioned so as to produce a venturi effect as air moved past it, hence the name. Although draft tubes have long disappeared on cars crankcase ventilation...

As long as you get the one signal wire connected right it'll work. OBD I doesn't monitor the heater like OBD II does so it's no big deal. The sensor may take a bit longer to warm up and go into closed loop and may fall out of it at idle on ocassion but other than that it should work fine. Not...

You betcha. There's probably even pix of a girl sucking on a PCV valve somewhere online ;)

Well, they all seem to go into catch cans so that's what I'd do. Cap off the throttle body port though. Or you could use a draft tube if you don't have emissions testing.

Don't wanna sound picky but in the time it took you to type that you could've Googled "PCV" about 30 times. You'd have learned a lot more too. Remember, the internet is much more than a global pornography network ;)

That motor is a mess. It's needs to be looked over closely if you want it to be reliable.Why all the corrosion? The wire is as IJ says: coil pack ground. The plugged hose looks to be the coolant pipe on the right side below the exhaust manifold. It's supposed to be capped off but not that...

What planet are you on? ;) A lot of "vacuum" is right. It's not possible anywhere on Earth to have less than 29.92 in/hg and even that has never been achieved. I doubt it'd even be achievable in space.

Yep, thats the other way they did it in the old days. Or open up the check valve in the stock cap and plug the metal line in the engine bay. As long as the tank can breathe. I didn't realize that valve port was NPT so his bolt idea isn't going to work. Sounds like the brass plug is the way to...

Sure. Or use the bolt, cut it off flush, then weld and grind/polish. Lots of ways to do it depending on what his capabilities are or what he's willing to pay. Kind of overkill though. I'd also point out the more permanently he messes with the emissions systems the less the car will be worth down...

Sorry, my mistake. What we have here is a failure to communicate. I thought you were talking about jamming a screw into one of the broken nipples. If you mean removing the VBSV altogether than sure, go for it. Just be sure to plug the vacuum port on the TB.

Hey, it's your life. If you're willing to risk it on a tiny valve in a cheap jack it's no business of mine. As long those you leave behind (assuming you don't end up in a wheel chair) with shattered lives scape off the mess before selling the car it shouldn't be a problem ;)