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Gonna had to disagree on this one mate ;) I don't even run a full flow oil filter. Haven't in years. And rarely do I change oil. Going on 140K miles and runs like a watch. It's what cracks me up when I see all the hype about what filter to use. That said, there are distinct differences...

For that money you could've installed a submicronic depth filter and forgot about changing your oil and full flow for 20K or more miles. And these guys are right: OEM oil filters (Denso) are easily beaten. Donaldson, Baldwin, Purolater Pure One, WIX, or Mann-Hummel come to mind. Amsoil is good...

Huh. Well son (from your frail ego, language, and inability to write you're obviously a youngster), I thought I did answer your question. You asked about the HAC and I told you even though I shouldn't have. You really didn't expect to get off scott free did you? Am I supposed to give away my...

Deleted, because it's well known you can't argue with a drunken man.

One nice thing about Toyo fan clutches is they can be refilled. The dealer sells the fluid. A locked one will rob power but sure keeps the engine cool and does wonders for the high side AC pressure. Damn noisy though ;)

Well, the cold start injector Thermal Time Switch (what you're calling the CSI sensor) and the CSI itself can only receive power during cranking. Releasing the key from the start position kills the entire circuit. If the power to it somehow became stuck on the starter would also be stuck on...

As he said, it's blowby. Combustion gases leak past the rings and valves. This pressurizes the crankcase and upper head. The pressure must be removed or it'll build up. In the old days it was simply vented overboard but these days it's routed back into the intake to be burned after being mixed...

CSI sensor? Do you mean the cold start injector time switch? If so I see no possible failure mode of that part using the stock wiring that can cause the engine to run rich. The cold start injector itself yes, but not the sensor. Can you elaborate?

Turbo or N/A? Either way, every time that baby clicks it's shutting off your fuel pump. No wonder the car is acting flakey. The circuit opening relay is a safety device. It's sole purpose is to interlock fuel pump to engine operation. It's job is to shut the fuel pump down in the event of...

Although I've never had the problem I've heard it exists. I'm sure others here will chime in but assuming the seals are OK be sure the dirt that collects in the corners gets removed and the drain gutters on the outside aren't pinched where they come together. Also be sure the drains down both...

Lol OK, fair nuff. I guess I didn't look hard enough back then. No internet in 87 you know ;). The one I built is still going strong and cost peanuts to make so I can't complain. It's funny you should mention flux capacitors as I also have an D in my stable. A fun car. Not as fast as the Supra...

I shouldn't be too hard on the guy but he needs to wise up. I have 140K miles on mine and it's always run like a watch. That's no accident. The key to making any machine last and be reliable begins when it's new. There are things you can do that go beyond the factory, otherwise you have to play...

I usually stay out of "my car sux" threads but from where I sit your biggest problem is not having any cheese to go with your whine: http://tinyurl.com/7sewk That was a short lived love affair wasn't it? You should've paid attention to that thread, lots of good advice in there. My Supra has...

Hi IHI, It wasn't my intention to rain or your parade. It's just some things didn't add up. 1) 1/4 inch hole? Very strange. On my car it's a tiny orifice. The hose connection is larger (still not 1/4 inch) but the actual orifice located in the throttle body throat is very small. I'd guess...

Hmmm....I've seen two oil leaks from loose fittings on the third cover. Those holes open right into the valve train you know. There is no pressure there but oil can migrate up the threads. Both times the leaks were what the owner thought was valve cover leaks but when he replaced the gaskets it...

Thanks Mate. In return I'd like to say that after persuing this forum in depth I find you to be hands down one of the most knowledgable here. I'm able to make that judgment accurately not because I don't know my shit but precisely because I do. The devil is in the details and it's obvious you...

There is no check valve in the TB port. One could be added but calibrated orifices are often used in place of them, especially in PCV systems. The GTE isn't unique in this regard. The bottom line is there can never be enough flow thru the orifice to pressurize anything as long as the crankcase...

I'm still chasing it. Seems to have stopped for the moment but it's obviously migrating from somewhere in the rear of the engine to that point. Hard to see back there but for sure it's not the valve covers. I've put UV dye in and will trace it in a few days. I'll let you know what it was. Btw...

While I appreciate the input perhaps I wasn't clear. This is not a valve cover leak. The head is dry. The leak is originating behind and below the exhaust manifold at the rear. It seems to be up behind the gold colored coolant tubes where the head joins the block. Fwiw, in 19 years of owning...

I have an oil leak that I can seem to pinpoint. After a washdown I can see it's coming from the right rear side of the block and running down past the coolant block drain. It seems to be coming from that area or back near the EGR cooler or at the right rear corner of the head. It is not a...