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http://tinyurl.com/2c3w4s That drawing is misleading in that the symbol implies a resistance based sender. In reality that's not the case. Test procedures are in the service manual but a quick gage and wiring check is to remove the wire from the sender to see if the gage remains at zero with...

Ugh. You went through a lot of work. The sender comes out pretty easily the way dave925 says if you have a stubby or decent crowfoot. Sorry I missed this as I could have told you Crapsman wouldn't do it. I know because I had to help a guy remove his sender and those were all he had. A little...

http://tinyurl.com/332p2n Jan 06 and 221 posts. Not too lazy are ya?

For those interested there's three areas at the lower left behind the gas door, any of which can be drilled and used to mount a NC pushbutton or pin switch. Run a single wire from it to the hatch switch for the factory alarm or to an aftermarket input. 30 minute job. Presto...alarmed gas door.

Well, that method is very common for preserving aviation engines that cost a whole lot more than this one and I know people who do it with auto engines. Truth is few things work better. That said it's almost always done with the engine out, say in a crate or on a stand. I agree it's not a good...

"Crude...but effective". Yeah, that'll work as long as the two blue connections at "FP" are connected together, though if that's where the pump is going to be you'd better not quit your day job ;).

Agreed. GMAW is the easiest of the electric processes to learn. GTAW is the most difficult. I have inverters for both (a GTAW machine will also do SMAW) but for the kind of work I typically do I use GTAW. Practice is important but there's a lot more involved especially if you're going to learn...

^ lol...

That's not possible. No lights yes, in fact it should do that, but charging beyond 12 volts...not a chance.

Sorry, couldn't resist. This place just slays me at times ;)

Lol...

88:The speed sensor is located in the speedometer. The ecu and a few other electronics uses it for several functions whenever the car is traveling over 11 mph. It's a simple magnetic reed switch that can be checked with an ohmmeter. As for the battery light what part of "also check the voltage...

Bruntz: I was talking max limits in the car. With everything up to snuff or on a load tester it would be closer to what you're saying. Never deep discharge the typical car battery. Even a couple of times below 10 volts or so will considerably shorten it's service life. I have Priority Start...

Yeah, that's it...too much ground ;) Edjumacate yourself: http://tinyurl.com/27paxl

Glad to hear. Odd a jump didn't work but it's 5 am and I'm too tired to put much thought into it. For the future keep in mind that the voltage across a battery should not fall below 10 volts during cranking. One that does is either bad or needs charging. Voltage under no or light load means...

Ah, I see. Well, it's printed right on the back of the flex pcb in several places. IGN+ if I recall correctly. Ground is labeled as Earth on the board if I'm not mistaken.

The same book shows all of that and everything else you'd ever need to know. In fact very few other types of problems on the car have the resolution to them as clearly spelled out in such detail as electrical problems. Which makes all the posts about them pretty amusing....

http://tinyurl.com/ysea84

You need to determine if the sensor has failed or it's reporting a legitimate condition. Two ways to do it: On the car or off the car. On the car: If it's stuck rich ( it is in your case) make the engine lean. Pull the brake booster line off or introduce a largish vacuum leak some other way. If...

You just want the car fixed. I understand but don't make our job harder than it is. It's tough enough to do this over the Net. Help us to help you. Do the simple stuff first. Charge the battery or try a jump. Also check all the connections. After that all that's left is the starter.