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Well, pin 4 is power but it's switched power from IG1. It won't be hot when the key is off: http://tinyurl.com/35omco That wouldn't do for theft operation. In fact I believe loss of power on pin 4 combined with a ground applied on pin 15 (door switch) is what puts the IR into auto-off...

Sure, if the leak was large enough. The vacuum readings point to a pirate air leak too. Start with the manifold and go from there. Too bad you don't have a smoke machine. They make that kind of leak detecting work and a whole lot more effortless. You'd have to pry mine from my cold dead fingers.

The ASIC in the IR services four relay drivers: HL, TL, and both directions of the retractor motors. It uses them to handle the different functions including the theft system and auto off feature. Must be why they call it an integration relay huh? That you can reset the thing tells me the HL...

A CertiCrimp will cost big money and you'll need one for each size terminal. I use an Amp ProCrimper adjusted to mil spec pull testing on everything from the cars to the planes. It'll work for all three sizes and the dies can be changed for other types. In fact I have two of the things. Around...

Look at the auto off schematic. It takes the retractors out of the equation and simplifies how the HL system works. Power, ground, inputs, and outputs as I said before. No can read amigo? ;) http://tinyurl.com/yosqqx Pin 11 is the trigger input from the theft system. It's what puts the lights...

Is that the return from the sensor or supply to ground? If the return that's the source of the code 22 right there and illustrates why measuring voltage beats resistance testing any day of the week.

It shows it as being grounded only in the Hold or Tail positions. Not grounded in the HL position. If I'm not mistaken that output is used for retraction control. There are several differences in the combo switch legend between the 87 EWD and the online one. I haven't had the chance to...

You're back to what 3p was saying about the trigger (pin 14) on the IR. You need to see if it's going high when the combo switch is turned off. Either that or try floating it by removing from the connector. If that doesn't drop out the relay I'd verify every pin on the IR connector for proper...

I see. Well, as poodles points out it's tough to do this in cyberspace. I'm also wondering if the difference in combo switch legends translate into a problem with you using one from a different model year. I would think not but it means more circuit analysis is required to be sure. If I was...

I was on the road when all this started and only last night got home to really look into it. That my 87 EWD (didn't have access to it when I was away) doesn't match the online one didn't help. The grounds through the combo switch won't kill everything. They run through it only for the purposes...

Pood: I don't think it's his integration relay. Even if it was it's ASIC based as 3p said and opening it seems useless since the HL relay is transistor driven. I suppose he could have multiple bad one though.I could also resolve it in a flash if I was there by doing it the old fashioned way...

^ Exactly. If the ISCV is indeed stepping full open upon shutdown (it's clicking doesn't necessarily mean that) and it's unplugged before the engine is restarted rpm should go to around 1400. If it doesn't the idle bypass path is either restricted in some other way or the problem doesn't lie...

That's what I'm telling him. The integration relay isn't involved in supplying ground to the lamps (or his new relays). How are you interpreting the combo switch light control section's handling of the lamp grounds? Pins 12 and 3? Pin 20 looks to be the trigger for the IR, not pin 14. 14...

I'm not following this: "The dimmer switch (which controls high beam/low beam) alternately switches ground between the high beam and low beam contacts of the stock headlight via the Integration Relay" The Integration Relay only controls power via the headlight relay. It does not control high...

Very much so. It's Trig I find difficult ;) When you say the headlight relay is staying energized you mean the stock headlight relay right? I'm more interested in why the new relays aren't switching off. They should if the combo switch is working and you have the pigtails wired right.

Appears I wasted my time writing all that TPS crap in the SME section. Your guy is correct. Code 41 results from an open or short in the VTA portion of the TPS, which cannot be resolved by adjustment. You're confusing it with code 51 which *can* be corrected by adjustment. Bottom line is...

The engine can be push started with only a minimal battery connection. Battery connections can be quickly tested with pretty good accuracy by using the old school headlight trick. Turn 'em on and try cranking. If they go out a battery connection is bad. If they dim the problem usually lies...

Even if that were the case (unlikely unless you have multiple bad integration relays) the combo switch should remove ground from the relay coil, same as it did to the stock headlamps. Is it doing that? Check it referenced to battery positive. So the car's wiring wasn't stock before you did...

One of us is confused. Why would you be trying to adjust the TPS to solve a code 41? Not gonna happen.

Yeah, it's either red or pink depending on whether it's straight or premixed. At least that's what I recall. I haven't used the stuff in years. I neglected to point out I use G-05 because it's as close to a "one size fits all" coolant as you can get and when you have a bunch of vehicles it's...