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It'll probably be OK. Consider this though: if the cap were sealed in the opposite direction the vacuum generated in the tank would collapse it. The tank collapses with this small delta P across it because of the surface area involved. The thing is that would happen at a delta much less than...

I see. Well, keep in mind it's not so much about pressure as surface area. A small delta P across a large area is as dangerous a large delta P across a small area. It'll probably be OK but I dunno for sure. You'll know if it isn't ;)

Is that cap completely sealed against positive pressure or does crack at some point other than pushing the button?

Lmao @ the PCV setup. Plumbing in the true sense of the word. Not to mention it's probably the worst job of sweating copper I've ever seen...

Use synthetic oil and filter it, preferably with a bypass depth filter. If not use a full flow filter, a real one made for hydraulics. You can mount the temp sensor at the filter. That and keeping the fluid cool will go a long way towards keeping the tranny happy. Change the fluid every 20,000...

Yeah, at least use some known good concrete ;)

Actually, this (or one of the other brands) is the best radiator filler ever: http://tinyurl.com/ytx236 Need a compressor but trust me, once you've tried vacuum filling you'll never go back ;)

Sure. Go for it. Brushes and regulator. Beats the alternative.;)

Ja, you gotta love German engineering. Can't help much other than to say yeah, it doesn't seem to be charging. Putting a meter across the batteries at 2000 rpm would confirm that. Check fuses, eyeball the wiring, the usual stuff. I'd need to see a diagram before I could offer anything else...

^ What he said. It's not as easy as replacing the brushes but it's not all that hard to do since it just bolts on. Whether it's worth it or not is open for debate. Since I dislike the junk most auto stores sell I roll my own rebuilds. As long as the stator and field windings are OK it's not...

http://tinyurl.com/2zh79k :) Poodles: Don't use that. Not that it won't work but it was meant as a little engineer humor. Very little ;)

Damn, an event worthy of an appearance by yours truly in the cesspool that is OT ;). Happy Birthday!

Doesn't show it in the 87 EWD either. What about the current flow through that small shunt when the low beam ground is active? A resistance low enough to effectively light the led would have to be large in wattage to dissipate the power involved when the low beam ground is active and the...

^ Agreed. You're losing regulation. Check the wiring on the alternator and battery, especially the sense wire. It's the smallish one connected to the positive battery post. Also check the engine block ground. If all that checks out replace the alternator. You could replace just the regulator...

Huh. In over 20 years I've never had a problem with that hose. 40K miles on it since engine overhaul and it's fine. Every stock hose on the car went to 105K miles. In fact my lower radiator hose is still original. I really should get around to changing it. I do like silicone and the Goodyear...

Yeah, it's turned into a monster. Ah well. The kid did good on the high beams though. I wasn't sure he'd get it. Don't get me started on the HID thing...

Yes, temp gage comes from another sensor. EFI sensors are typically two or more wire, aren't connected to anything else, and their wiring runs straight to the ECU without any interruptions.

Could be several things. The "see-saw" valve in actuator is dirty or the spring bad, the speed sensor in the speedometer is bad or being effected by something else in the speedo or the speedo cable, lost motion in the linkage, bad vacuum pump, ect. Run the CC diagnostics. Also check for engine...

You got it. Or at the ECU if you want to check the wiring. The diagnostic system in this car is a bit stupid. It only can recognize shorts or opens in the analog sensors. It does that by looking for anything above 4.8 volts for an open or below 100 millivolts for a short. Note that if the...

That doesn't tell you much since Vc is used for the other sensors, including the AFM. If it was missing you'd know it. Try measuring across the coolant sensor, preferably at the ECU connector. The voltage must fall between 4.8 and 100 mv. Anything above or below that is the only source of a code...