Search results

Just so long they fit inside the retainer, should be fine.

Are both cam gear index marks lined up with the marks on the back plate? The pic is making the driver's side look off.

What you're referring to is NOACK Volatility. The NOACK test determines how much weight loss an oil experiences through volatization. Unfortunately, Mobil does not publish numbers on this, but testing has shown it's in the 6-9% range...that is pretty low. I doubt your oil consumption is due to...

Second question...No, but you can make a gasket out of a gasket sheet. Toyota relies on the O-ring on the CPS shaft to effect the oil seal.

I can promise you overfilling the oil a quart high will not make it smoke...turbo seals and/or valve seals and/or rings going out will. Ask for the machine shop receipts on the work done to the head and decking the block. Sounds like this guys is trying to sell his problems ;)

Robert - Read this post...it applies to any 15W or 20W-50: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41775 I highly recommend reading this link when it comes to choosing oil viscosity: http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/ Why don't you do a write-up on it? The Amsoil website has a ton...

Ok...let's talk about Mobil 1. Before I start, go back and read post #2...the following is what I expect for a post on a particular oil. Research the oil, justify your reasoning, and base your statements on fact not opinion. The only reason I'm doing this is 1) Mobil 1 is a very popular oil...

The lube is the most important factor...changes things rather dramatically. The 5 torque cycles talked about in the ARP link is for the initial installation...once the motor has been heat cycled, it becomes moot. The purpose is to reduce the coefficient of friction on the threads to get the...

Very interesting design ;) How much was it?

Well...did your research include these? APR is very specific about torque spec and it changes depending on the lube used. For the old studs...81 ft/lbs w/ moly, 105 ft/lbs w/ 30W motor oil. For the new studs...80 ft/lbs w/ moly, 120 ft/lbs w/ 30W motor oil. Read this (including the...

You squeeze You get :biglaugh:

:gotrice:

LOL...it's the only clamp that I could get to fit on the damn HCV that looked like it belonged!

The Trasko is a by-pass filter...night and day difference from full flow filters like the Wix or PureOne. The Trasko will remove particles down to the 1 micron size. If you're going to run a dual filter head on a 7M, the Trasko and a full flow is the way to go. Otherwise, you might as well...

Like I said...you want to use a straight 30W for break-in. Look for a API SJ, SL, or SM oil. I'm pretty sure Castrol sells a straight 30W in the UK. The Havoline oil will be fine after break-in. I keep my oil a quart "over full" as well...good insurance IMO.

I ended up brazing an AN-12 weld bug to both the union bolt. Ran the stainless line to the HCV and used one of those "AN look" clamp fittings to secure. Worked well...did have to bend the firewall lip up a bit to clear the AN 90 fitting at the back of the head though when I dropped the motor...

I'm am not too familiar with that oil...looking at the specs you posted, it is a little out-of-date. The current API spec is SL/SM, ILSAC GF-3/GF-4 and ACEA A3/B4 & A5/B5. That does not mean it's not good...it far exceeds the SG/SF spec the Supra manual calls for. The spec sheet I found is...

For a conventional 7M set-up...the Amsoil EaO filter: http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/eao.aspx The Mobil 1 would be second choice...filtration is close (not better than) to the ability of the PureOne. For a full flow cooler set-up...the Canton Racing CM filter...

That sounds like your timing belt is off one notch (tooth).

How do you plan on routing the oil to the cooler? BTW - my cooler is almost twice that size ;)