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I'm not a big fan of shimming the 7M oil pump that much...the motor was designed with a high volume, low pressure system. I know guys do it, but it can cause problems like this one and it's hard on the pump. Now that it's done, taking the shims out would be a royal PITA, but would be the best...

Chris - Remember when I helped you with your IC system and how exceeding critical velocity would cause a pressure rise, restricting flow? Guess what?...air is a fluid just like oil ;) He is exceeding the "critical velocity" of his oil system, and his turbo drain line based on the seal's...

Rich - the calculation would have to be done with the oil at operating temp (100 deg C)...like I said, the oil should not be foaming The pressure part of the calculation is the unknown here...the turbo oil drain line is larger and will cause a pressure drop. The calculation would have to be...

An aftermarket cooler should not raise your pressure...they are usually less restrictive than the stock one. Also, the stock oil filter has a relief valve that functions at 30-40 psi to direct oil to the cooler...after the cooler, the oil is sent directly to the pan. Based on your oil...

True statement...if you want this oil at a reasonable price that is ;) That is an outstanding deal...I was able to pick-up quite a bit at that price before the sale ended. Good for you man :biglaugh:

I've used FedEx Ground...DHL may be a bit cheaper.

^^^ The stock HG is good to fuel cut...even on a Lex AFM would be ok, but that will be pushing the upper limit. This assumes an installation with attention to detail and ARP hardware. Above that, a stock HG's life is limited ;)

That would be the right way to do it.

It's not going to "implode" ;) Not using a cooler is just not a very good idea for all of the reasons above. It's kinda like running a thick oil (actually worse)...it does not do the motor any favors. You have no protection at all if the oil overheats on extended runs...over time that will...

Keep in mind Mobil 1 is not a true syn oil...it doesn't do as good a job cleaning out deposits as a PAO or ester based oil. If you're going to go with a Hydrocracked Group III oil (like Mobil 1), Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 or 10W-30 is a better choice. Pennzoil has taken the formulation of this...

Go to google.com Click on Maps. Click on get Directions. From New York, New York. To Paris, France. And read line #23. :biglaugh:

You might, but it would be very small. This would be mostly for show.

Jag is correct...the oil in that motor needs to come out ASAP and do not run it until the HG is fixed. That is unless you WANT to FUBAR your bearings. After the HG is fixed, I would put on a Wal-Mart SuperTech filter and flush it with some 10W-30 SuperTech oil. Run it for about 10 min, then...

Fitment is exactly the same for both the turbo and NA ;)

ARP torque spec using moly for studs is 81 ft/lbs...using motor oil, it's 105 ft/lbs. That is the old spec, iirc ARP revised the spec slightly for the new studs. You should use the values on the spec sheet!

Very well said :bigthumb: Sound familar Gentlemen?

The ad says "High Nickle Alloy". I would like that verified myself ;) If it fits well, this would be a good alternative to the tube type.

And I suppose that makes it ok huh? I do believe Forrest Gump made a pretty dead on quote about that thought process in the movie ;) Yep...and at what rpm does that occur at? Why do you think Adjuster, IJ, and a host of other guys put so much thought, time, and $$$ into their oil...