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There's also the oil feed line to the turbo and the oil pump sensor in that general area.

Now that is outstanding. I love stuff like this...a guy sees a problem and solves it using basic physics. Bravo!

Check your EFI fuse in the box behind the battery.

It will also help to keep cylinder temps down and prevent detonation. ;)

If you're using 2-3 washers...7-8psi is about what you would expect ;) Check all your couplers though...won't hurt. Exhaust tubing will work great for IC piping...just make sure they're very clean inside. Don't want any weld splats heading into the motor ;) You will need to form some...

You ask the question after you order them?!?! Kinda backwards isn't it? Those look a lot like the iridium design...if the performance is the same, they should work well. Check the gaps ;)

:bigthumb:

No wonder the fuse was blowing...use a Bosch 30 Amp relay ;) A better solution is to use a fan controller...Spal makes a good one...FAL sells a variable speed one too.

OK...on an '89 car, there is a fuse holder w/ no fuse between the 15A ECU-IG and 7.5 A IGN fuse on the bottom row of the fuse block. The top connector on this blank slot is hot with the Ign on. I use this for the Ign source for my fan controller...if you don't have a controller, use this to...

You could use 100% isopropyl alcohol...don't use rubbing alcohol, it has too much water in it. Freon would be best...Google "vapor cleaning". If you clean the housing with the electronics removed, just be careful with the honeycomb...it bends easily.

A couple of cleaners that would be safe to use are CFC-12 or HFC-134...otherwise known as Freon 12 & 134. If you do this, you will be in violation of several parts of the EPA statutes (or whatever it is in Canada) ;) Any solvent that does not craze plastics will do...be very careful around...

Looks like you have quite a bit of blow-by oil from the PCV. Have you ever cleaned out your IC? It won't put oil into the intake, but there might be more oil inside the IC than you expect ;) AFM wise, do you have a K&N filter? Might be over oiling it. DO NOT clean the AFM sensor probe with...

If you are going to buy new Toyota head bolts, why not get ARP's? The studs are even better ;) A stock HG will go to 15 psi if torqued properly on a clean, straight block/head. Torque the stock head bolts to 75 ft/lbs...ARP hardware to the spec on the sheet. I would use a Toyota OEM...

Thanks again Roy!

There is nothing wrong with the Titan MHG...in fact, it's one of the better ones due to the higher RA spec (HKS is 25-30). All you have to do is lay the MHG on the block and see if any of the rivets are on the deck surface or touching it...just remove the rivet with a set of shears and you are...

There is an awful lot of info about HG's on this site...I've posted on it dozens of times...learn to search. I will tell you this, if you are planning to use a MHG both the block and head need to be machined to the RA (smoothness) spec for the MHG used...failure to meet this spec is asking...

Thanks! That would be great :)

Yeah...that's what I hear. Something like 120 ft/lbs with motor oil. I was just wanting a copy of the new sheet for reference ;)

Believe the spec sheet...it's 80 ft/lbs with moly. That sounds like a new spec sheet...can you scan a pic and post it?

Per the previous post: The relief valve on the filter housing could very well be a contributor...sounds like you've got a handle on the problem Rich. Is the cooler warm after you run it? BTW - I'm using a -3 line on my SP turbo...provides plenty of oil to the turbo (oil cooled only).