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That's interesting :icon_conf You can go either way...copper spray is not going to hurt anything in this case and will fill any imperfections.

^^^ Yep...dead on. Just said it a different way ;)

1) The stock USDM ECU is "tuned" for an EGR. 2) The inert gasses introduced to the combustion mixture keeps cylinder temps down...this helps reduce knock. 3) Removing the EGR has no effect on HP either way. 4) You need the EGR to keep NOx in compliance...especially on a car in CA (ones that...

Cough...Not a great idea...Cough

Well...not that simple. Dr.J's and JJ's comments on the by-pass function of the turbo coolant lines is dead on. I blocked mine off, actually welded the opening feeding the turbo closed and plugged the fitting on the back of the water pump housing. I was getting the "weirdness" Dr.J spoke...

I'm going to throw in my 2 cents: A 180 deg stat will not make your coolant a lower temperature. It will open earlier and allow coolant to flow to the radiator...in this sense, it will allow the radiator to dissipate heat earlier and "get ahead" of the game. After extended ops though, the...

What you're looking for is 10 psi per 1000 rpm...you can't have "too much" flow IMO. Don't confuse (or equate) flow with pressure...psi is the "carrier", flow is volume. To get more precise, you would need to know the dimensions of every oil channel/pipe in the motor, the capacity of the...

Are all the grounds (3-4) hooked up at the intake manifold?

A heavier weight oil is not the solution long term, it's also not going to harm your motor for the short term either. SS5 is basically correct...the real solution is to install a full flow, thermostat controlled oil cooler. I'd really hate to see you dump that expensive Red Line...the good...

It is...to those that help themselves. If you're too lazy to look...why should we help?

Last I checked...the nut is a 14mm 12 pt head.

^^^ And that will give you 60-80 psi of pressure...make sure the rest of the oil system can handle it. For stock or light/medium mods, 5mm is plenty ;)

You'll need a turbo tach...make sure you have an USDM oil pressure sender on the block too. The JDM sender can fry your gauge.

JDM motor? Driver side is on the right...where our ECU is ;) You need a USDM cable I'll bet...and yes, the #1 speed sensor is in the speedo...and yes, it will affect an auto's shift.

LOL...typical for this pig off the line. As IJ likes to say, a "hippo in ballet slippers" ;)

Nope...just paying attention to detail ;)

Blocks of wood (2x2) with thick cardboard on top...you don't want any chance of the weight of the head resting on the valves.

Spray both sides...read the directions, you have to let it hang to get tacky. Make sure the index pins are in place on the block, the head bolt holes are chased, and the RTV is already applied to the top of the front inner timing cover at the TRSM locations. Carefully drop it on lined up with...

Yep...the launch is an acquired skill, you have to practice ;) Especially for a fat ass car like the Mk III...take her out to see what she'll do under controlled conditions. I've learned to ID a Z06...run them only if you want to see what they can do (at least for most of us). That car is...

The Mustang ran a 12.4 iirc...he was a better driver. His 60' time was better than mine by a tenth...he was a manual tranny too. I got him when I got full turbo spool and my auto kept it there ;) The Z06 just kicked my ass (like a red headed stepchild)...he ran just under 11 sec. Both...