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14mm...it's a 12 point deep socket. You might have to use a 3/8" drive with a 1/2" adapter for the torque wrench to get the clearance for the socket to fit in the well in the head.

Yep...the only time I've been to the track I made two runs. 1st was against an '07 Z06...I was a little slow off the line, but still ran a 12.2 iirc. He beat me by over a full second...he was all stock. :3d_frown: Second run was against a '06 Mustang GT w/ minor mods (intake/exhaust)...

Jay - You won't have a problem against a C6 ;) A Z06 is a different story...the '07 version is a 500 HP car from the factory. The torque that V8 puts out is what really kills a Mk III off the line...almost impossible to recover from too. About your only chance is on the hi-way as stated...

Stock rods should be fine...I would use ARP rod bolts though. Make sure they are re-sized with the ARPs torqued to ARP spec. Rod bearing clearances are critical. I would also use ARP main bolts...a line hone for the mains w/ ARP bolts torqued is a very good idea. Meeting the RA spec (at...

LOL...and I hope you don't. All that LPG blowing around where it's not suppose to be = BOOM

And that was good advice! BTW - when we gave out call signs in my previous life to guys that had not "earned" one...it was usually "Wedge". The simplest tool ;)

You left something out :asshole: You have no clue...don't want to have a clue...and base what you say on selective reading. Do what you want...blow your car up if you want or dive it off a cliff. If you spread a bunch of crap though, expect it to be shot down.

Yeah...I keep forgetting! Back in the stone age here...levers, wedges, hammers...cussing ;)

Depends on the catch can, but usually the bottom one is the drain.

Appears you mistook dark/sooty smoke from a rich condition/incomplete combustion for blue smoke caused by oil. They do look a lot alike. Glad it was simple ;)

Head was decked...block was not. This is technique...what I would do. If it goes on without the spray, he would be just as correct. ;) If we were talking about a new MHG, complete different story!

I'd say at least an hour...think about it...24 valves in 30 min? Have to be one fast mofo to do that ;)

Yep...you're gonna hear me say it: I would use copper spray on an OEM HG ;) It will fill the imperfections on the block/HG itself. But, like JAV said, putting it on dry is just as correct. If you use the spray, wait until it's tacky. You get one chance to lay the HG down correctly on the...

Take a look at the link I posed to Lucas and make your own decision. If the fluid is old/dirty...it's time for a filter clean/flush.

Doesn't surprise me Ric ;)

The "grumpy old men" have beat up on you guys enough...I'm thinking you're getting the idea it's not a good idea to delete the CC. Here's all you have to do. Get a 1JZ CC, mount it behind the wheel under the skirt, re-route the lines. Your fuel system will be happy and you don't have the CC...

Yep...eye watering huh ;) Knowlwdge is a wonderful thing if applied correctly...not to go off topic, but you also may want to read this for starters...read the links at the bottom too: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38811 Judging from the OP's description of the fluid...

^^^ And well deserved I may add ;)

Ahhh...forgot about the cute widdle 1JZ :biglaugh:

Most "good" info on our cars is on Mk III tech anyway ;)