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Don't run a straight 30W...you want the oil as low a viscosity as possible for start up. Use a 0W, 5W, or 10W-30. It's ok ;) Read this thread plus the links at the bottom...helps to see where I'm coming from: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38811 Always keep in mind...

You're welcome ;) BTW - the torque for the valve cover bolts is 22 in/lbs (NOT ft/lbs!).

You fixed it! Idle speed for a NA is 700 rpm. ;)

I wouldn't replace them...you don't want to induce a problem ;) To do a re-torque, you follow the TRSM pattern and just "crack" the bolt counter clockwise then tighten...do not use the torque wrench to crack the bolts! Go to 65 ft/lbs 1st pass, 72-75 ft/lbs on the 2nd pass...again using the...

Flying an F-16 100' above the river at 600 knots down the Mosel Valley in Germany will get your heart pumping pretty good too ;) (one of the dumber things I did in my younger days)

The problem is on a healthy coolant system, the thermostat may never open up with the car idling...especially if its cool outside. I removed the "jiggle" valve at the top of the thermostat, leaving a small hole. That gives me constant flow into the radiator...air goes right through as well...

NAPA sells the gaskets (comes w/ grommets too) In Phoenix, go to Ace Hardware look for 6mmx1mm, 27mm long stainless hex cap heads...these look nice. Get inside star washers for between the bolt head and grommet to keep them from backing off again.

Depends on where it's leaking from...the wells closest to the leak fill first ;)

That you need to change your valve cover gaskets and torque the covers to spec ;)

Two words...valve seals ;)

Of course...that's where the hose leads to in the pic. It's a stock tank in the stock location...just doesn't show in the pic ;)

Vette owners are kinda funny...just cruise around mostly. I nailed a yellow C6 Vette two days ago coming back from FedEx. Pulled up next to me at a red light...clear road ahead. He gunned it and caught me off guard...I had my boost set at 12 psi...he pulled almost 2 car lengths before it...

This guy is nuts...especially the part zipping through the tunnel. He's riding a modified Yamaha R6 at speeds over 150mph on the H-3 in Hawaii. Check the digital speedometer on the left side...thought for sure I'd be seeing body parts flying at impact ;)...

^^^ Gotta be a photoshop fake ;)

Yep...some edumacation was needed ;) Been using the Toyota Red for a while now since I get it for free :icon_bigg Works well, even during the friggin hot summers in Phoenix!

Toyota is a phosphated coolant. Read this: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=859 You will have to completely flush the system to change to the Toyota Red. DO NOT use Dex-Cool!

I assume you have not had the car long...the stupidly of "some" Mk III owners is well documented. As you can see in this pic...the overflow hose connects to a fitting on the rad cap neck. It also sounds like you have a radiator for an auto in your car...perhaps a tranny swap to manual was...

^^^ Yeah...by about one tooth. The index marks should be lined up with the plate when the crank dampner is at "0".

Ummm...the lines out the bottom on a stock radiator are for an auto tranny cooler. The overflow line is located on the cap neck.

I fixed it ;)