No kidding. Normally I would've just pointed him out as another fine example of the continuing death spiral in American science education but I'm trying to be kinder and gentler these days ;)
That's technically soldering, as are most of those products. They'll work but real brazing will be much stronger. Myself I usually GTAW such projects. Depends on the situation though.
^ Uh, better check your facts. I do it fairly often. All it takes is the right flux and filler. There are some alloys that can't be brazed but it's doubtful you'll find them for this application.
Nah, he's got it right. Look closely. I see no BVSV though. Means it's sucking on the EVAP canister during cold off idle operation. That'll make it run even richer than usual until it gets into closed loop.
You're lucky because many vane AFMs signal in reverse from the 7M. That said, simply because the engine seems to be running OK is no indication it is. It may not be in fuel control for example. After all you've messed with one of the two primary engine signals. As long as the AFM is the close to...
You do. When closed the vane in your AFM presents a physical restriction to flow. This restriction forces air to pass through the unmetered chamber where the screw is. Because of this arrangement adjusting the screw will shift the vane's idle position, which means the screw can be used to...
Yep, the other part of the AFM (the part that measures air flow) is an entirely different story. If that's bad it'll cause lots of grief. Try another one. Be aware you may have to adjust the idle mixture screw if it's from another model car.
A much bigger headache for me would be the inability to have confidence in the car's reliability but it's your call.
Fwiw if the air temp sensor is the only problem with your AFM just run it as is. A lack of THA won't cause a drivibility issue. You won't even notice it and the ECU will take...
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