^ What he said. I'd go for it. As amusing as some may find it the truth is electrical issues are among the easiest types of car problems to solve. After all the diagrams show exactly how everything works. No other aspect of car repair offers that sort of solution. In this case the only downside...
You have a problem unrelated to the fan. That said after everything is checked put the stock fan back on. Really. Rebuild the fan clutch or buy a new one before you do.
One thing I didn't touch on in the other thread but should have is that most people overlook how the cooling system's total...
Of course. I was talking normal use, the job for which the car was designed, and how I use mine. In that capacity I want all the cooling reserve I can get without modification. I'll also agree about people doing what they want no matter what but there's no way of separating such idiots from the...
Of course they "work". Just about every transverse front wheel drive vehicle made today uses them. The issue is what's best from an engineering standpoint and what's best for this application. In that case it's the stock fan for several reasons. Anyone who fully understands the dynamics of a...
You're talking science, engineering, and physics while he's talking an opinion based on personal experience, a logical fallacy for determining facts that intelligent people know to avoid. Yet those who hold to your (and mine) point of view are "just flat wrong". Ya gotta love that ;)
Popular brainiac elite? Lmao....
Not worth it figgie. The guy's comments should be allowed to stand on their own merits. A look through his post history proves that to be the best choice of action.
Because it works better. The real question is why not use the gage with the stock one wire sensor?
"Better" is relative though. The HO2S was designed with two principles in mind: 1) To get the engine into closed loop faster and 2) To prevent it from "falling out" of closed loop during prolonged...
Just hook the heater wires across any circuit that comes on with the key. Fuel pump circuit would be better though. That way the sensor would heat only when the engine is running. The tap points aren't far from the sensor either. Be sure to fuse it...
There are no diags for the lock module and no connection to the TCCS.
Sounds like your ignition key line is whacked. There's an door module input that gets grounded when the key is in the ignition. If the lock module thinks the key is there it'll do what you're describing. Does the seat belt...
I'm not fam with that TPS but it must either have an idle contact or you rigged something else up. Anyway, it doesn't appear to be a case of grounded IDL because it'd do it anywhere off idle...even with the pedal floored.
Stock TPS? If not what did you do about the idle contact? Does it do it with the pedal held to the floor?
Sounds like fuel cut caused by IDL remaining closed. Check to see if it's going to 5 volts when the throttle is cracked. A stuck IDL contact won't set a code and iirc is not monitored by...
It can but you might as well by another in that case. The real problem there is when a compressor locks it almost always sends parts of itself throughout the system. Called Black Death in the AC biz. The system will need to be flushed and worst case is the condenser and expansion valve will need...
Lots of places sell them. Google the number, try the folks at Arizona Mobile Air, or ask at aircondition.com. Also try acsource.com. The 10PA17C is a piston compressor and one of the easiest out there to overhaul. Even easier to reseal, which is all a working one usually needs.
edit: Or listen...
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