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The relay is supposed to do that. Did you check/jumper the AFM switch? The only way of knowing the Mistu relays were bad was to open them up? Yikes. Ever hear of a meter or test light?

Well, if you're going to check continuity you have to unplug both. However you should be checking voltage because that's what the ECU deals with. Measure between VTA and E2. VTA should be around 300 mv at closed throttle and about 3.5 volts at WOT with a smooth and linear change between the two.

Try it. If that fails drill the heads and remove whats left with vise grips after pulling the covers.

If you haven't buggered them completely up yet try dipping the tip of the screwdriver in coarse valve lapping compound. Used to work really well but I haven't done it in a while...not since I got screwdrivers with diamond dusted tips. Not cheap but worth every penny ;)

The very fact you read that and the manuals rates an answer from me. That you don't write like a 10 year old is frosting on the cake. You even spelled "vacuum" right. (I'll overlook "worm") ;) You're correct in that the VSV switches the regulator between manifold and atmosphere with it...

Stant #12027. Around 18-20 bux from lots of places. Rock Auto comes to mind or here: http://tinyurl.com/3kyxfp The cap adapter is a Stant #12021

Funny strange or funny ha ha?

Wow. This guy is truly clueless. You all can argue with him...I won't. Since the SAE is wrong there's always this well done study: http://tinyurl.com/363cu "While the wear metals all accumulated steadily over the course of the test, the highest concentrations of accumulation per mile...

The control line is fine. As for orientation the valve will work either way but it's better for it to be installed as in the top photo, especially if you're running higher than stock boost.

I do. Glysantin is the "G" in G-05: http://tinyurl.com/4zfb2e http://tinyurl.com/6x5qvs

You actually opened the relay just to complete the circuit? Lmao. Ponder this: If the fuel pump runs when jumped to B+ might that mean the relay problem is unrelated to why the engine won't start? As for relay buzzing here's a hint: Instead of using B+ try jumping FP to battery positive...

I doubt he has ever done analysis. Look at his reasoning behind the short OCIs. He "loves" to have fresh oil. Makes him "feel good". "Money well spent". Real science there. Considering we're dealing with a technical subject that alone doesn't make him look smart. Not only is what he doing a...

Huh? I don't recall that. I could have forgotten though. From where I sit you've always been one of the more informed members here. Tubojuiced: I've been reading your posts but staying quiet. I've notice a few things about them though. One is you're at the stage in learning where you know...

As noted water is the standard on which thermal conductivity is based. There's a reason for that. John: HOAT coolants are still EG based, they just don't use 2-EHA as part of the add pack. I'm pretty sure the newest OEM stuff is hybrid too but of the HOATs I think Glysantin is best. Another...

It should be baboon....

By springs I'm assuming you mean for mechanical advance. If so there are none...the 7M uses ESA.

I have a Tap Lok on one of my other cars. Softly rap the code out on the car's skin in a certain place and presto. Can be used to enable/disable anything. Nice for lost keys too. What some serious geek security? Here ya go...you'll pay for it though: http://tinyurl.com/45vcln

It's supposed to do that. At least until you fix it. Start here: http://tinyurl.com/2p447u

http://tinyurl.com/52y64e You could also check for the presence of codes by using Vf.

To answer the original question the aftermakert system must bring low one of the disable inputs on the stock alarm box just prior to (or at the same time) the lock module powers the door solenoids. It can't simply unlock the doors. If the problem doesn't happen all the time it's likely that bit...