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Welcome to SM. You're not going to be able to set timing correctly with that high an idle. Are you jumpering the diagnostic connector and checking for a normal code before trying to time it?

Lots of ways but the easiest is to put a manifold gage set on the system then turn the AC on and block the condenser.

Do'h. Sorry guy...I stand corrected. I had stock TB on the brain. I'm clueless about the Q45. Need to pay more attention...

Sure, if it was really crapped up. How'd it get like that anyway? 10 lashes ;)

About that how-to link: It's easier to use #6. And make sure a normal code is flashing before going any further...

Ah, I see. I'll have to defer to your expertise about what the auto does based on coolant temp because that's one area I've never looked into. I'm a manual. OP: The sensor can be checked according to the graph published in the book. As Nick said it's NTC and iirc will be around 200 ohms when...

Sorry Nick, my bad. Is this the gage we're talking about? If so yeah, it'll show hot but hot isn't normal. Or are you talking about the ECU coolant sensor? If so yes, a short across it will default the ECU to hot (normal) temp. That ought to confuse him ;)

It won't. It is. ;)

Uh, not that you'd be the first guys to do it but there's no "t" in dexron ;)

I have no idea where you got that information but there there is no such thing.

There are built in diagnostics for the CC system. Try running them.

Someone finally gets it....

Great post. Thank you! :)

That's about right assuming everything is working although after shutdown the temp in the upper radiator core will go higher. The turbo coolant return line is a different story. That can get up to 240+ where it exits the turbo. An NA doesn't have that "problem" though. For a stock system...

Some advice from a guy who knows: Have faith in your instruments. The fuel pump runs any time the key is at the start position. That's where the fuel pressure came from. It was higher when the pump was jumpered because battery voltage was lower during cranking and the regulator doesn't have...

Oozy doom? Guess I've been out of that racket too long ;) It's not so much the polarization as the low working voltage on two of those. I wouldn't use 10 volt caps even if that's what was previously in there. Especially if they're electrolytic, which it sounds like they are. Depends on what...

Good...we can blame you for not pointing out the mistake he just made. Then again you suggested he send it to Aaron so I guess it's a wash ;)

You have to beat the manual a little to make it talk...

^ Well, you're half right ;)

It means you didn't have to jump the pump. The fuel pressure had to be coming from somewhere...