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4 psi is about where the fuel pump switches over. Assuming you haven't done the 12 volt mod try running it with the pump jumpered in the diag block. If it goes away bob's your uncle...

^ That makes sense ;)

Say what? It's not possible for a thermostat to cause those codes...

Most of that stuff is reprinted from the tech articles on autoshop101.com

I assume you're referring to this: http://tinyurl.com/yp3bl2 VTA to E2 spec of 200 to 1.2K ohms with the throttle on the stop. The 600 ohms (.6) you got is fine. That said the IDL to E2 spec is far more important when it comes to idle quality.

Not only are they different sizes, which make it obvious where they go, but they're also labeled right on the canister. Then there's the TRSM... It's "vacuum" btw....think of 2you.

^ The reason for that is simple: Your Vantage doesn't know TCCS from Conventional EFI. A bit of background: One of the primary things that distinguishes TCCS from Conventional EFI (for example Toyota's P7 system before TCCS was introduced) is that sensor voltages are based on 5 volts instead...

Lmao. The guy should get kudos for doing basic maintenance. Instead all he gets is "how it looks" comments. Sure, spend your time and money on cosmetics...that way it'll look good on the end of a tow hook.

Timing belts of the era were rated at 60K. Modern belts are rated at 105K. That all assumes they're tensioned correctly and kept clean. That said my original 60K Toyota belt went 104K and 13 years. It was still holding up at that point (when I decided to overhaul the engine) but was clearly tired.

Yeah, it's necked down in there. I forget the size but it's nowhere near as big as the external port. It serves a purpose under boost too. I'd explain it but I'm sick of trying to teach people how this simple PCV design works. Hell, most still think PCV exists for combustion blowby. Never had...

The turbo TB doesn't have a check valve and it'd be unwise to put one in...

Heat shield installed? If not you'll be doing it again sooner than you'd like...

1) It's not possible for a failure of the O2 sensor or it's wiring to cause the symptoms you describe so look eleswhere. 2) Fix the O2 anyway to avoid other problems. 3) Forget Chilton. Get a TRSM and an TEWD. Until then use this one but be aware it's for a later model year and some...

Lol, it's the ultimate placebo oil. I throw some in whenever I can source it through contacts from the old days. I wouldn't run it as a fill though. Assuming I could even source that much for free I'm not crazy....and I'm sure as hell not going to pay for it. ;)

Unplugging the TPS should have set a 51 but it won't set a 41 right away because some codes don't set until the value stays out of range and certain conditions are met. Time, speed, rpm, key cycles, etc. The knock and O2 codes are other examples of this. Some codes will be set without...

I've been known to run a kilo or two of Fomblin in mine but I don't recommend it unless you can get the stuff for free ;)

Not sure I understand the question. It's both. IDL runs from the TPS to the ECU. Inside the TPS it gets connected to E2 (ground) whenever the throttle is closed. That pulls IDL to ground. When the throttle is opened IDL disconnects from E2 and rises to 5 volts because it's connected to sensor...

Idl - E2 is wrong. IDL should go to 5 volts when the throttle plate is cracked. VTA - E2 looks a bit low but is probably OK. Although the book says 5 volts I have never seen a TPS go beyond about 3.6 at WOT and doing the math shows that's what it should be. One of many misprints in the TRSM.

The OP but you should know better than try and get through to these types. Cleared direct to the nearest corner and hold ;)

My 1987 TEWD shows red/light blue and black/red. Connector is brown.