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Waaaaaaaaa pa pa ugh? Good Lord man, why didn't you tell us this before?

Which VSV are you referring to? AC idle up on the MKIII is accomplished by the ECU via the AC amplifier. If you're hearing the AC compressor relay everything on the control side (AC amp, ect) is working. That leaves low pressure, bad AC fuse, heater CB or relay, wiring, compressor clutch ground...

If you don't want to remove the valve just suck it open and permanently pinch the hose ;) F=P x A. If you can't increase delta p you can increase area. That means a bigger diaphragm. Or wire in the little vacuum pump from a GTE's cruise control. Maybe not as easy as yanking the valve off but...

Exactly. When all else fails read the instructions. No wait...last I checked munkys can't read ;)

Just for you I went out and measured it. The rod starts to move at 10 and once all the free travel is taken up needs 14 to begin lifting the lever. It takes 18 to fully open the valve.

It narrows it down a lot...and not at all. NOx failures aren't associated with evaporative emission controls. You must have two different problems...

Yep, 51 was the code I was referring to in my earlier post. It doesn't light the MIL unless in diag mode and although it can be caused by a few things it's usually TPS related. If that's the case the idle speed control system will not function. Fwiw codes should be checked on a regular basis...

Prius performance parts? Lmao...

I'm assuming you mean it failed the low pressure evap test. If so no codes will be involved and nothing after (or including) the cannister can be involved. Neither can the gas cap since it's not used during the test. You're looking at a leak in the evap line from the tank, the tank itself...

That's what I thought. In that car you can use any four (or three) wire that fits. Wiring it as amichie did will be fine. Fuse the heater supply line. AJ: Me too ;)

No big deal...although I remain puzzled by people who post their cars are doing something strange while admitting they have known deficiencies.

I think you're confusing a WB with a NB four wire AJ. Four wire sensors are the same as three wire except for the additional ground lead. Course, the OP might be referring to a WB but his post leads me to believe otherwise...

You should have posted the codes. There are multiple O2 ones and not all indicate a bad sensor. Plus we have no idea if you know what you're doing. You have to look at it from our side. For all we know the smell comes from you rippin' a few off in the car...

That could be mixture or catalyst related. You need to fix the TPS and O2 sensor and do whatever else it takes to get the engine back into fuel control. H2S is both poisonous and flammable btw, so feel free to stress on ;)

Well, first off you shouldn't have driven the car for a month with a bad O2 sensor. Fix it and check for more codes. Sure it's fireworks and not rotten eggs? You might be smeeling hydrogen sulfide...

I more than doubt it. And smelt refers to fish. Have you checked the car for any? They smeel real bad after death...

What AJ said. In fact the problem that usually causes this sets a code that is specifically designed not to light the MIL unless the system is in diagnostic mode. Not saying it's your problem but having played with the TPS is a bad sign....

Ok, you win. It's possible the ECU thinks the car was in an accident and shut off the COR. In doing so it also shut off the auxiliary electric priming pump below the center valve cover. That in turn will prevent ignition because, you know, a lack of oil pressure would be bad. To reset the COR...

3p is correct in that it's unlikely a bad AFM will cause that particular symptom. Try unplugging it. The engine should still start and run if everything else is OK.

Although I have better I sometimes use my old HP 5325B counter. There's just something about nixie tubes ;)