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Yeah, it's wrong. Specifically the igniter labeling is wrong. Wire color and labeling on the ECU is correct. Not that you should be using that crappy drawing but good on you for noticing...

Maybe it's just me but anyone living a life in which they've never heard anything bad should be worried about more than oil ;)

Lmao. It never ends...

It can be messy if you don't mod a spare cap to catch the overflow. And no, those sprayers don't last long. At least the pumps don't :). Fwiw I recently came across a new kind of automotive bleeder that's used in the same fashion but I'll be damned if I can find it now. If you want a really...

Not a problem...I can see why you thought that. As for vacuum (technically there's no such thing but we won't get into that) yes, as airflow into the engine increases it should be less. In other words pressure in the manifold should increase in the direction of atmospheric. The only time you...

High fuel pressure, ruptured regulator diaphram, or a shifted coolant sensor (especially if it's warm outside). Even though it runs ok afterward you should still look for anything that prevents the engine from starting quickly. Slow cranking, timing, dirty airfilter, weak spark, weak CPS, bad...

That'll work. So will a small $15 garden sprayer from the local hardware store. Fwiw I pressure bleed from the wheel cylinder, the way it's done on aircraft. Bubbles prefer going up you know...

Bottom line: if the the AC button isn't lit (even if the rest of the AC system has been yanked that'll still set the code) and the transmission is in P or N (if an auto) it's near certain a 51 is TPS related. 2006. Jeez, I've been hanging out here way too long...

Generally speaking flooding is not common in EFI systems and even less so with this one. That said a leaky cold start or main injector can cause it but if that were the case you should have continued problems after start. You could always jumper the fuel pump on and smell the intake or pull the...

What makes you think it's flooded? And fix the code 51...it has nothing to do with the AC not being hooked up.

If the coolant sensor is shifted that statement is true. That's unlikely though. Plus it'd have to be shifted in the right direction. However if the coolant signal is shorted or open/disconnected (typically what happens) the ECU will default to hot and run the engine lean. Easy enough to check...

Not that it should make much of a difference but I never said to connect it there. I was going to suggest the same about vacuum leaks. For example I can readily tell from my gage's behavior if say, the little heater valve line pops off, even it it comes off all the way over at the valve.

Looks like all that experience paid off...

Does that make sense? Do as dumbo said and check codes. And yeah, I'd be looking towards the coolant sensor too but not because of richness...

Bottom line is this: GMAW for relatively low cost, ease of use, and laying it down quickly. GTAW for precision and the ability to do dissimilar metals. Mig will work fine on steel as long as it's not very thin and although it hasn't been mentioned aluminum can be welded with it. It's done all...

Then it should be plumbed as I said, from outside in. Put another way the flow returning to the engine should exit the center hole of the filter...

Can't tell from the mount but for any spin-on filter flow is supposed to be from the outside in because the outside of the filter (it's larger diameter) provides more surface area for increased capacity. There's also the issue of a bypass valve if the filter has one. However true cooling filters...

All they show is you're not alone but that doesn't mean you should be next in line to prove it...

It's the one integral to the speedo Dave. Magnetic reed switch @ 4 pulses per cable rev. Used for idle speed control, cruise control, TEMS, some other stuff. Don't worry about it ;) OP: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=87496

Well, no speed sensor equals no idle speed control, among other things...