Search results

^ Me too. I've welded aluminum with nothing more than a tig torch, shielding gas, and a car battery. It wasn't pretty either. Works pretty well on steel though :)

I can confirm that p/n is a JDM ECU. I can also confirm that, as figgie pointed out, since the box has no VSV output (at least none I've seen) the EGR question is moot...

Me thinks you're confusing the AC thing (at least as it applies to aluminum) with GTAW. Fwiw aluminum can be welded on a DC GTAW machine by using electrode positive as long as care is taken to remove the oxides and size the electrode properly. It won't be as pretty though...

Nah, not hiding anything. Just lucky with the oil incident. I rebuilt the engine 40K miles later though. As for reliable it's attention to detail, a proactive inspection and maintenance approach based on experience maintaining aircraft, a mild climate, and probably some good luck thrown in...

Not sure what that means but in the off chance it refers to longevity of ownership I bought my car new. That means I've been "boosting" since June 22, 1987. If you're referring to time spent under the hood I'm probably one of the lowest here...

You've sort of got the vacuum valve thing backwards. It doesn't make the PS system lighter. It's idle up is only to keep the engine from bogging under increased PS load. I suppose in one sense you could say it maintains the pump speed same as what it would be without the engine bogging down but...

Crack me up. You guys make it sound as if Red is some magic elixir made by elves. All non-premixed EG coolants are comprised of the same things: appx 80% glycol, 10% distilled water and 10% inhibitors, which is why the water is in there. The only difference between Toyota OEM and *any* other...

There's normally a little side play but not very much. We're talking single row caged ball bearing here. It's very easy to change the idler bearing and not all that hard to change the one in the clutch. Course, if you have more money than skills you could just buy an entire new idler. OP: Diag...

I'm not sure. Since he obviously doesn't care oil covered engines are fires waiting to happen we may never know ;)

Nice engine. I've never seen a CPS that well lubricated...

Lmao. Stewie from Family Guy to kid at ball park: "I'll trade you my hot dog for your bat" Kid: "OK" Stewie (after taking bat, keeping hot dog, and smacking kid hard with bat): " What did we learn"? Are we learning anything here dumbo? ;)

It appears you're low on refrigerant alright and the low pressure cut out did it's job protecting the compressor. Odd you didn't get a 51 with the key and AC on with the block jumpered and the throttle closed. In that condition 51 is a good thing as it proves the AC signal from the climate...

Thought you were lost at sea ;) To start with fix code 51. It's likely the TPS. Then set ignition timing, which can't be set as long as a TPS caused 51 is there. That should point you in the right direction. Also check valve timing, vacuum leaks, and proper CPS installation. Forget the plug...

You be welcome. Upstream means the air filter side. Downstream means the plenum side. Being on the air filter side means with the throttle plate closed the port will not be exposed to vacuum. That prevents EGR at idle. The VSV prevents EGR during other times...

1) The stock TB supplies ported vacuum, that is the port is located upstream of the closed throttle plate. The reason is to prevent EGR operation at idle. 2) Q goes to the EGR valve, P goes to the VSV...

^ The only guy who appears to know what he's talking about. 1) It's completely normal for older R12 systems to lose refrigerant over time. 2) It's a violation of federal law to sell R12 to any person not holding EPA 609 certification. The sole exception is for resale and the buyer must sign a...

Iirc it changes the units for correct calcs/display but I could be wrong since I took that useless (to me) thing out of my car years ago and sold it...

Might want to check the service manual. Everything you need to know is in there. Might also want to check for codes...

Don't listen to that guy on the MKIIITech site. He's evil I tell ya....eeevil ;) Are you opening the block drain? There's lots of ways to flush, either with or without cleaning chemicals. You can flush just the core the way SC said, do a couple of fills and drains with the heater set to high...

It does sound like a bad connection. A voltage drop test would confirm it. I remind you of the simple old school trick for checking the battery and it's connections: Turn on the headlights and crank the engine. If the lights dim the battery/ground connections are good and the battery itself is...