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Since Integration Relay #2 controls the headlight relay it can't be at fault. As you said, no headlight relay, no high beams. Same goes for the headlight fuses. That leaves the combo switch or wiring. That said since the HL relay and high beams are working the two portions of the combo switch...

Maybe that's your problem...

Not that it's likely to help but there are only three possible ways the stock alarm can trigger: 1) Connection of one of the trigger inputs 2) A faulty alarm ECU. 3) A loss of power to the ECU followed by reconnection. The system is designed as such to prevent defeating it by battery...

^ The bottom of the radiator is the suction port. It's where the coolest water will be. Flow-wise that puts the factory sensor before the thermostat. Or maybe I didn't understand you...

Well, you could have low voltage on them. Corrosion, bad wiring, stuff like that. As for brighter you could go LED. I'm not talking about the multi-led junk most places sell either. I'm talking about the latest singles from Cree, Seoul Semiconductor, or Luxeon. That's what I have in one of my...

^ Although I've ignored it for years it's time to set the record straight about that. EFI 101 tells us vacuum leaks on L Type (airflow based) induction systems have very little effect on idle speed. That they do is a myth that needs to die. It's true disconnecting the vacuum hose on your fuel...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=101

Make sure all the orifices in the TB are clear. 1) The TPS is pretty much sealed so unless you soaked it I doubt you did any harm. At any rate a quick test with a meter will confirm whether it's OK. 2) Of course you should replace the gasket. Buy one, make your own, or use some sealant (ugh)...

Why odd? A properly done weld is stronger than the parent metal. Do you know how weld coupons are tested?

If it's stubborn try that: Make up a long jumper wire, say around 10 feet, preferably with a fuse in it. Connect one end to battery negative and the other to the ECU's ground pin. Clear the code. If it doesn't come back you've just halved your diagnostic chore because you now know the problem is...

It's caused by a loss of ECU power or ground. Rarely is it the ECU itself. Intake manifold ground (first thing to check), main efi relay, EFI fuse, etc. The easiest way to track it down (assuming you're not electrically competent) is to jumper around stuff in the circuit until it goes away...

Sounds like it was doing you a favor...

Lmao @ Ian... Kenny: Yes, but better formulated. I'm usually not a fan of such repairs but when the need arises A4 puts consumer products like JB Weld to shame. Used all the time by the military and in aviation. It's serious stuff. Cheap and readily available too. Ebay has it. JB would work...

Two words: MetalSet A4 ;)

No problem. People run 20-50 on healthy engines all the time. Not very oil savvy but neither is the engine going to explode. I just hope your next smog test isn't soon. Not only because of the oil but because your cat is very likely dead by now...

Sure, in your case that'd be fine...

Considering the God forsaken climate there (I used to live on Timberhill) it's probably just condensation...

I'll point out both the stock EFI and gage sensors are located on the engine side of the thermostat. There's a reason for that ;)

The VSV reference is a mistake in the TSRM. Note none is shown in the diagram. Not that you should be using that crappy "schematic" for troubleshooting anyway. When you say no codes do you mean in general or no code 51 when doing as I asked? You have to work with me guy. This is one time you...

Fwiw it may or may not have been the cat. Due to it's efficiency a new catalyst can mask problems with the feed gas. It's why proper emissions troubleshooting is always done upstream of it...