Code 11.

[SupraOfDoom]

Sucks I cant search for "11".

Anyway:

Engine has been torn apart by the previous owner... so I can't exactly tell you what's been done recently but I was told most gaskets, mhg, arps, timing belt for some background info.

Now, the check engine light seems to come on during hard acceleration.. and if I really accel it even kills the car. Also the car very occasionally idles bad... maybe even misses.

The code says it's ECU related... and I will be checking the ECU to make sure it's all working properly but I was wondering if anyone else had similar problems and found it was ECU related and not something else.

 

[jetjock]

It's caused by a loss of ECU power or ground. Rarely is it the ECU itself.

Intake manifold ground (first thing to check), main efi relay, EFI fuse, etc. The easiest way to track it down (assuming you're not electrically competent) is to jumper around stuff in the circuit until it goes away. You can either jump around individual components or go right from the battery. The battery way is better because it quickly determines whether the problem is on the ground or power side, although in your case it sounds like just wiggling the harness might work.

Code 11 masks all other codes. If they exist they won't be displayed until 11 is resolved...

 

[SupraOfDoom]

It's caused by a loss of ECU power or ground. Rarely is it the ECU itself.

Intake manifold ground (first thing to check), main efi relay, EFI fuse, etc. The easiest way to track it down (assuming you're not electrically competent) is to jumper around stuff in the circuit until it goes away. You can either jump around individual components or go right from the battery. The battery way is better because it quickly determines whether the problem is on the ground or power side, although in your case it sounds like just wiggling the harness might work.

Code 11 masks all other codes. If they exist they won't be displayed until 11 is resolved...

Thanks, exactly what I wanted to know.

 

[jetjock]

If it's stubborn try that: Make up a long jumper wire, say around 10 feet, preferably with a fuse in it. Connect one end to battery negative and the other to the ECU's ground pin. Clear the code. If it doesn't come back you've just halved your diagnostic chore because you now know the problem is on the ground and not the power side. Either inspect the ground points, measure them, or work backwards towards the battery along the circuit with the jumper until the code comes back. The problem will be between there and the last place you jumpered. Zero in on it from there. The same procedure works on the power side. Better in fact, because there's more stuff on that side of the circuit to cause grief...

 

[SupraOfDoom]

Alrighty .

To add to this: My clock is incredibly dim. Everything else seems fine.... although I just installed a CD player and it didn't power up.... hmmm. This is what happens when my car ends up in others hands for 5 months.

 

[queenskid926]

my fix was to run a wire from the batt signal to the ecu to the actually battery + terminal and wire a 15amp fuse in between.

 

[DBN]

i may know the problem with your radio. check the radio fuse (which i bet you already did) and replace if needed and if that doesnt work check your dome light fuse. i kicked myself pretty hard when i figured it out the next day.:nono:

 

[SupraOfDoom]

OK well the radio issue was fixed. Just a fuse.

To expand and ask another question which may be entirely related to code 11, or not:

I didn't notice at first but the guy I bought my Supra back from HAS no CPS cover on. I mean nothing. It's 100% exposed. Now, I seemed to have a slight low idle or what could be a miss happening. One time even flooring it my car just shut off. I read about CPS connection problems and it seems they could be directly related. I'm assuming the CPS cover being off is very bad since spark could jump from my understanding. I already ordered a new billet steel CPS cover from ARZ Perormance so that won't be an issue soon. My question is now, could this be related to my code 11? I know it could be related to my idle and potential missing. It hasn't been warm out so I haven't been taking a look too closely yet. ( Stupid WI ).

 

[jetjock]

Nope, not related. Nor can any spark jump from inside the CPS. A cover is a good thing though. You could have bought something like a dozen OEM covers for the price of that fancy one. Not that I have anything against the billet cover, just seems a waste for someone who didn't notice any cover at all

 

[SupraOfDoom]

I didn't see it under some close by wiring . I like fancy... shiny parts.

 

[GrimJack]

I didn't see it under some close by wiring . I like fancy... shiny parts.

Time to get rid of those wheels, then. :icon_razz

PS: Try searching for "11??" or "11**". Either one might work.

 

[jetjock]

Fair nuff. It's aluminum btw...to keep sparks from jumping to it

 

[Nick M]

And sinc "11" is only defined as one more than ten, search DTC list or codes, or maybe pulling codes. Shaeff has linked the repair manual online directly a few times.

 

[SupraOfDoom]

Time to get rid of those wheels, then. :icon_razz

PS: Try searching for "11??" or "11**". Either one might work.

Believe me I know about the wheels. I put my PS3 for sale to get some we'll see how that goes.

Aluminum... that makes more sense I guess I didn't really think that one out all the way . Might as well leave it off if it was steel.